In 1881 he made the second longest journey of his life. He secured
permission to absent himself from the university for six months, and
went to Ceylon. He left Jena on the 8th of October, and did not return
until April 21, 1882. The traveller and æsthete in him revelled in this
first plunge into the tropics. How he was taken to the enchanted land of
India in the Lloyd steamer _Helios_, a pretty reminiscence of the
“heliozoa” (sun-plants), a name he had himself invented; how he greeted
his beloved medusæ in their beautiful tropical forms of the Indian
Ocean; how he lived in the execrable but thoroughly tropical and
interesting Whist-Bungalow at Colombo, where mysticism and an unholy joy
in card-playing occupied him until philosophic zoology came to crown and
redeem everything; how he set up his zoological laboratory far from the
world at the Cingalese village of Belligemma (which he interpreted
_bella gemma_, the “pretty jewel”), and fished with his Müller-net for
radiolaria, medusæ, and siphonophoræ, for six whole weeks, to the
intense bewilderment of the naked children of the palms; how he at last
penetrated into the wildest virgin forests of Ceylon, where one heard
the heavy tread of the elephant and the roar of the panther—all this he
has described in his _Visit to Ceylon_, the freshest expression of his
temperament, which belongs utterly to the free, artistic half of his
life, when Persephone has her summer days in the land of flowers.
He himself regarded this journey, happy and favoured to the very last
minute, as a crown and conclusion of his travels that could never be
surpassed. But many a long hour was to be spent in travel after that,
and he was to make one journey that left Ceylon far behind him in the
Indian Ocean. In the spring of 1887 he made a pilgrimage to the “Holy
Land,” Jerusalem and the Dead Sea, Damascus and Lebanon. On this journey
he spent a delightful month on the island of Rhodos. In 1889 he had a
pleasant time on the beautiful island of Elba. In 1890 he visited
Algiers, where his innocent sketches and his anatomical knife brought
suspicion on him; they arrested him and threatened to shoot him as a
spy. He has described the incident in his genial way in his _Algerian
Reminiscences_ which is, unfortunately, lost in a back number of some
magazine or other, like so many of the sketches of his travels. In 1897
he travelled over the whole of Russia, from Finland to the Caucasus, and
visited Tiflis, Colchis, and the Crimea. In the autumn of 1892 he
accompanied Sir John Murray, of the _Challenger_ expedition, on a small
deep-sea investigation on the coast of Scotland. In the spring of 1893
and 1897 he was at work once more in his beloved Messina, where he was
now honoured as a world-famous guest. In the autumn of 1899 he climbed
the Sabine and Corsican hills. As the second decade after his first
journey to the tropics came to an end, he seemed to regard all he had
done so far as a small payment on account.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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