In 1904 a little institution that called itself “The International
Congress of Freethinkers” announced that it would hold its annual
gathering at Rome. The pope—the new pope, friend of the royal
house—lodged a feeling protest with the authorities. The priests poured
inflammatory rhetoric over their people until violence seemed
inevitable. The Italian Government’s only reply was to grant the
heretics all the privileges that were ever given to the great Catholic
pilgrimages: to put at their disposal its finest institution, the
Collegio Romano, and to send its Minister of Public Instruction to open
the Congress. Veteran warriors such as Haeckel, Berthelot, Salmeron,
Sergi, Denis, and Björnsen, gladly announced their adhesion. Paris sent
a thousand delegates; Spain nearly a thousand; Italy her thousands.
Whole municipalities in Italy and France (even that of Paris) took part.
The Latin world was aflame with rebellion. We met, seven thousand
strong, in the heart of Rome, and Rome—the jade—smiled prettily as we
marched up the Via Venti Settembre, as it had smiled once on processions
of Cybele, and then on processions of Catholics.
Haeckel was greeted with a wild demonstration as he stepped on to the
platform in the great _Cortile_ of the College. Straight and proud,
white with age but pink with more than the freshness of a young man, he
adjured them in futile German, in his thin, inaudible voice, to form
themselves into a new Church, the great Association of Monists. Few
heard and less understood him, but his name was on every heart and his
reception superb.
A week afterwards I picked up a London journal in an Italian hotel, and
read—as hundreds of thousands had done—that a miserable Freethought
conference had been held at Rome: that its rowdy proceedings had
disgusted the scholars who had, in a misguided moment, lent their names
to it. Thus are we informed at times. I remembered Sergi’s enthusiastic
comments at the close. “E magnifico, e magnifico,” was all he could
gasp. I remembered Haeckel’s exultation as we walked home to his Albergo
Santa Chiara, and Berthelot’s deep joy. The same scholars, except
Björnsen, took part in the Congress at Paris, in 1905, when 100,000 of
us were nobly received by the Conseil Municipal. But Haeckel was too
unwell to come. Nature has laid her hand on him at length, and bade him
hang his weapons on the wall. He can but hope to remain a passive
spectator for a few years more of that vast stirring of the Latin
peoples which he has so much contributed to bring about.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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