Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
The only other interesting building at Shefr Amr is the Greek church,
which has been rebuilt on old foundations. The remains were evidently
Byzantine work, dating probably from the fifth or sixth century. Many
interesting tombs are to be found both north and south of the town. The
most noteworthy has a handsome façade, covered with a design of a vine
with grapes in bold relief, and with small figures of birds introduced.
Each vine-plant grows out of a pot. On each side of the door is an
effaced Greek inscription, with rosettes in lozenges below and birds
above. Here, also, are fragments of Greek inscriptions, and on the left
side-wall of the vestibule is a bas-relief of a lion and a small animal,
perhaps a cub; on the right a lion, a cub, and a bird. The drawing is
very primitive, and has a Byzantine appearance. Inside this tomb, which
contains three loculi, there are mouldings round the principal arch,
with tracery of vines and carvings of birds. These tombs are interesting
because both the inscriptions and ornamentation belong to the Byzantine
period, thus proving that the mode of sepulture practised by the Jews
from the most remote date was continued by the Christians up to the
fifth or sixth century after Christ.
Our way from Shefr Amr led through the beautiful oak woods which belong
to that town, but which seem doomed to destruction, for I observed that
many of the handsomest trees were girdled near the base, while numerous
stumps bore testimony to this lamentable work of denudation. In a
country where wood is becoming so rare it was heartbreaking to ride
through this beautiful, park-like scenery and witness the work of
destruction going on in spite of the government prohibition against
felling timber. Emerging from these grassy glades we descend into the
magnificent plain of the Buttauf, now a sheet of emerald green, as the
young crops extend before us as far as the eye can reach. Traversing
this fertile country one is more and more impressed with the
incorrectness of the judgment of the ordinary tourist, who, confining
himself to the route prescribed by Cook, is taken through the barren
hills of Judea, and to one or two holy places in Galilee, and then goes
home and talks about the waste and desolation of Palestine. The trite
saying recurred to my mind as I looked on this wealth of grain: “I pity
the man who can go from Dan to Beersheba and say that all is barren;”
or, as my travelling-companion, who was an American, more forcibly put
it: “If ever I meet a tourist who tells me that Palestine is barren,
I'll lick him.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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