Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
Our hosts assured us that we should find any further attempt to ascend
the river impracticable, and that there was a place where the water fell
for a considerable height, but we could only reach it by making a
circuit, which would take a day. However, we determined to judge for
ourselves, and succeeded in getting about a mile farther, when we found
the river shut in by precipices on both sides. It was impossible to
descend to it from the brow of the cliff on which we stood, much less to
ford it afterwards, or to scramble up the precipice on the other side.
There was nothing for it but to make an ascent of at least fifteen
hundred feet, either to the high plateau of Jaulan, on the right, or to
recross the river where we had already forded it, and scramble up the
steep, wooded hillsides of Ajlun until we could find a path leading in
the desired direction. This latter course we determined to adopt; so we
returned to the Arabs tents, crossed the river more successfully than
before, warned by our previous experience, and braced ourselves for a
twelve-hundred-feet climb up the best track we could find, under the
guidance of one of our recent Arab acquaintances. I had been on the
lookout all through the day for ruins, and I was now cheered by the
intelligence that I should find some on the summit of the hill we were
climbing. Such proved to be the case. The situation, at an elevation by
my aneroid of about eleven hundred feet above the sea, would indicate
that in old time it was a fortress. It was supplied with water by
cisterns, the remains of which still exist, some of them
demijohn-shaped, and one about ten feet square and twenty feet to the
bottom, which, however, was much filled up. There were many piles of
huge blocks of drafted stone, but I did not observe any columns or
carving, and I think the remains date from a period anterior to the
Roman occupation. The modern name of the place is Tel el-Hösn, but its
existence has heretofore been unknown, except to the Arabs of the
neighborhood, and its discovery was some compensation to me for the
effort I had made to reach it.
EXPLORATION ON THE YARMUK.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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