Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
they thus honour is undoubtedly considered by Moslems to be the tomb of
Jethro, who is known among them as Schaib; and the Rabbi Bar Simeon,
writing in 1210 A.D., mentions the tomb of Jethro as being at Hattin.
Considering that Jethro lived in Midian, on the shores of the Red Sea,
it seems rather unlikely that he should be buried here. However, that is
a detail. The fact remains that the spot is one of great sanctity, but
is infinitely more venerated by the Druses than by the Moslems. Indeed,
I met a Moslem who laughed at the Druses' superstitions in regard to it,
and who was as much surprised and puzzled as I was when he heard them
deny that Moses was the son-in-law of the buried saint.
The building which the Druses have erected over the old, dilapidated
Moslem shrine, which still stands here, has already cost more than
$5000, all subscribed by the Druses among themselves, and it is not yet
completed. It consists of a courtyard, one side of which is formed by
the solid rock, while the other contains chambers. The roof forms a
terrace, and above it, also partly faced by rock, is a large upper
chamber surmounted by a dome. The scene as we approached was very
striking. The Druse sheiks, desirous of doing honour to their guest,
formed in two lines to receive me, while guns were fired off and songs
of welcome were sung. The white building, with its terraces crowded by
men and women in bright-coloured garments, harmonized well with the
romantic character of the scenery, and formed a picture calculated to
impress the imagination.
I was ushered by my hosts into an anteroom, after exchanging cordial
greetings with those I knew, and being introduced to those who were
still strangers to me; and then we all squatted on carpets, thus
occupying all the four sides of the room, which assumed the appearance
of a sort of council-chamber. As, with the exception of the Japanese,
the Druses are the politest and most courteous people I have ever met, a
great part of our time is taken up in salutations and compliments. First
we press our hands to our hearts and lips and foreheads, with great
effusion. No sooner are we seated than we repeat this process as if we
had not done it just before. Then, in flowery language, we ask each
other repeatedly after our respective healths, and are profuse in our
thanks to God that we are well, that they are well, that our families
are well, and that we are permitted to enjoy the great privilege of
meeting one another. Then coffee is brought in, and after drinking it we
go through the same process of saluting each other all around. Then I
request permission to light a cigarette, which is necessary, as the
Druses never indulge in tobacco; indeed, the more rigid eschew coffee.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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