Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
Haifa, June 22.—While my two days' experiences at the Neby Schaib,
described in my last two letters, were in the highest degree novel and
picturesque, and enabled me to obtain an unusual insight into the
manners and customs and religious observances of the Druse nation, my
stay at this celebrated shrine of their pilgrimage was by no means
destitute of archæological interest. The village of Hattin, which is in
the immediate neighbourhood of the tomb of the prophet, forms the centre
of many sacred and historical associations, while it is in itself a
place of unusual beauty of situation.
In the overhanging rocks on the other side of the gorge, immediately
opposite my tent, were several sepulchral chambers, all traditional
burying-places of persons more or less historical. Some of these I
examined. The largest was one entered by a doorway, which had recently
been inhabited, for the framework of a wooden door to it still remained.
It was supposed to be the burial-place of one of Jethro's daughters. We
are told by Josephus that his family followed the Israelites out of
Midian. Its last occupant was an Indian hermit, who had lived here in
solitude for three years, when, getting tired of his seclusion, he had
gone to Tiberias about a year ago, married there, and immediately
disappeared with his wife, no one knew whither.
About a hundred yards from the Neby there issues from the mouth of the
gorge a copious spring which, in fact, forms the source of a brook, that
ultimately finds its way into the Sea of Galilee. It commences its
beneficent course, however, by fertilizing a large area immediately
surrounding the village, where flourishing gardens of oranges, lemons,
figs, apricots, pomegranates, and other fruit-trees impart an air of
luxuriant fertility to the landscape not common in these parts. Among
these gardens is one which was purchased a few years ago by Sir Moses
Montefiore, and presented by him to the Jews of Tiberias. Here I went,
at the invitation of the overseer, and, seated on mats under the
spreading arms of a fig-tree, I listened, while I sipped his coffee, to
his tale of woe: how last year he had resisted what he considered an
exorbitant charge for taxes, how his garden had in consequence been
invaded and despoiled by the tax-gatherers; how, being a
British-protected subject, and the garden being the property of British
subjects, he had appealed to the British consul for redress; how he had
spent £50 in the effort to obtain it, and had found British protection
not only a broken, but an expensive reed to trust to; and how he was
driven, by the refusal of the British government to protect its
subjects, to try and protect himself by the plentiful expenditure of
backsheesh. I explained to him that it was not the habit of the British
government to protect its subjects, but rather to abandon them, even
though they might be of exalted rank, and their lives might be at stake;
and then I went in search of ruins.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account