Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
I was escorted to the extremity of the village of Hattin by a band of
young Druses, firing guns and singing complimentary odes, who thus
sought to speed with honour the parting guest, and soon found myself
crossing the plain and entering upon the steep descent that leads to the
shores of the lake. It was a soft, balmy evening, about sunset, when I
reached Tiberias, and found the whole population in movement.
The distance from the town to the tomb of the rabbi is about a mile and
a half along the lake shore, and the road was crowded with merry groups
of Jewish men, women, and children in gala dress, all flocking to the
place of meeting. The two or three boats of which the lake can boast
were even put into requisition, and were slowly drifting down, their
large sails hardly filled with the gentle breeze, and packed to
overflowing with women and children. Tiberias contains between three and
four thousand Jews, and certainly more than half that number must have
turned out, to say nothing of those attracted from Jerusalem, Safed, and
other places. As those who inhabit Tiberias are nearly all Sephardim, or
Spanish Jews, the men wear the Oriental dress, while the women indulge
in a costume in which the Western fashions seem grafted on those of the
East. The visitors, who were for the most part Ashkenazim, or German
Jews, could easily be distinguished, as they always appear in the
clothes to which they are accustomed in eastern Europe. It must be
confessed that the flowing robe of Asia is preferable to the long coat
or gabardine of Russia and Roumania.
The men usually walked, but a favourite method of locomotion among the
women was donkeyback, and very comical they looked, sitting astride very
wide pads, with their skirts well up to their knees, and their necks and
wrists and foreheads bedizened with ornaments, while their wigs were
often a perfect garden of flowers. However pretty some of the faces of
the younger members of the female community might be—and they could not
compare for good looks with the Druse girls—nothing can compensate for
the abominable practice which prevails among them of shaving their heads
and wearing wigs of black hair, which come low down upon the forehead,
and the falseness of which no attempt is made to disguise.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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