Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
I was too disgusted with these latter, however, to be tempted to live
near them, and was casting about in despair for an alternative, when one
day I received a visit from the Druse sheik of Dalieh, the only other
village on Carmel, and distant about thirteen miles from Haifa, who
arrived in great distress to tell me that his only son had just been
drawn as a conscript for the army, and that the whole family, including
his son's wife, whom I had remarked on the occasion of a former visit as
one of the most beautiful girls I have ever seen, were thrown into the
greatest grief, as they were unable to pay the $250 which was required
to buy a substitute. I rode up to the village to inquire into the
matter, and, in return for the required sum, which I paid, received a
vineyard and garden of fruit-trees, with a good title, and a site far
surpassing in loveliness of situation that which I had failed to secure
at Esfia. The whole village turned out _en masse_ to express their
gratitude and make professions of service. As the village is exclusively
Druse, and does not contain a single Christian inhabitant, I felt that
these were to be relied upon; nor, so far, has this confidence turned
out misplaced. The sheik to whom I had thus been able opportunely to
render assistance, was the spiritual head of the village. Its temporal
affairs are managed by another sheik. The site for my house was only
divided by a terrace from the little Druse place of worship, where,
however, the services are conducted under the strictest secrecy. The
whole hillside here is terraced with vines, pomegranates, and
wide-spreading fig-trees, at an altitude of thirteen hundred feet above
the sea, which is distant as the crow flies about five miles. It
commands a magnificent view of it and of the picturesque ruin of Athlit
on its projecting promontory, while a smiling valley, the sloping hills
of which are partially cultivated and partially covered with copse-wood,
winds down to a wild gorge between whose precipitous cliffs one enters
the plain of Sharon.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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