Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
In the eyes of the natives, this modest erection has seemed something
palatial. The people of Esfia have come over, green with envy of their
Dalieh rivals, and bitterly reproaching themselves with the
short-sighted cupidity which has deprived them of the prestige which now
attaches to Dalieh, and filled with regret at the loss of the money
which would otherwise have been spent among them, while to the Dalieh
villagers it is a source of pride and delight. Whenever any Druse sheik
comes from a neighbouring village, he is at once brought to see the
sight. The consequence is that I have no lack of visitors, and,
foreseeing this, took care to have a special apartment called a “liwan,”
exclusively devoted to their reception. They are thus barricaded from
the rest of the house. Otherwise, with the prying curiosity which
characterizes the race, privacy would be impossible. As it is, from
morning to night there is always a group round the kitchen, much to the
detriment of culinary operations and the annoyance of the servants
engaged in them. Still, in order to keep on good terms, we have to make
concessions, to waste time over much drinking of coffee out of minute
cups, to hear their gossip on local politics, and, what is still more
difficult, to try and give them some larger ideas than the very narrow
ones which they have acquired upon these wild hillsides.
Altogether, although their defects are of a somewhat trying kind, and
their essential insincerity makes them arrant humbugs, they are rather
pleasant humbugs, and, provided they do not test one's affection by too
many invitations to dinner, which involves squatting on your heels and
eating with your fingers, the Druses are, taking them altogether, by far
the most agreeable class of people to live among in Palestine.
DOMESTIC LIFE AMONG THE DRUSES.
Daliet-el-Carmel, Aug. 1.—A residence in a Druse village upon the
familiar terms which I have now established with the inhabitants of this
one, opens up a phase of existence so utterly foreign to all Western
notions of domestic life, and involves experiences so novel and
characteristic, that I am constantly receiving illustrations of the
truth of the saying that one half of the world has no idea how the other
half lives.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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