Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
From Cæsarea I followed the coast northward with the high-level
aqueduct, which in places is still in tolerably good preservation, on my
right. This aqueduct was the chief source of the water supply for the
inhabitants. It was eight miles long, and at one point tunnels the rock
for a quarter of a mile, thirty feet below its surface. There was also a
low-level aqueduct, three miles long, which drew its water supply from
the Crocodile River. At some seasons this is a dangerous stream to ford,
though I experienced no difficulty. That it is not misnamed I possess
indisputable proof, for a few weeks ago an Arab acquaintance presented
me with a piece of crocodile skin about a foot square, cut from the hide
of a crocodile which he himself helped to kill in this river. Passing
Tantura, which also contains some Crusading ruins and rock-cut tombs, I
reached the Jewish colony of Zimmarin, which I had not visited for
eighteen months, and where I was pleased to find the colony in a
thriving condition, the colonists hopeful, industrious, and contented,
the crops promising fairly, and their progress only checked by the
refusal of the government to allow them to build permanent dwellings, a
difficulty which it is hoped may be overcome by a judicious display of
firmness and patience.
VILLAGE FEUDS.
Daliet-el-Carmel, Oct. 15.—In order to really understand this country,
to become acquainted with the inner life of its inhabitants, to
familiarize one's self with their manners and customs, their
necessities, and their aspirations, such as they are, and to arrive at a
true estimate of the national character, it is needful to remove one's
self from any centre of so-called civilization, however crude, and to
live among them, as I have been doing for the last three months and a
half, not as a stranger, but as a villager owning property, identified
with their local interests, and with a will to afford them such
practical counsel and aid as may lie in one's power. People wonder what
I can find to do in a remote Druse village in the back parts of Carmel;
but in practice the days are not long enough to deal with the varied
interests that crowd into them.
Scarcely a day passes that visitors do not arrive from some of the
surrounding villages—sheiks of high or low degree, as the case may
be—generally with polite invitations that I should return their visits,
which I know from experience means a financial proposition of some sort
in reserve, for all the villages are more or less embarrassed in their
pecuniary circumstances, and have been so victimized by the native
money-lenders of Haifa that they eagerly turn towards any one who they
think possesses bowels of compassion.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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