Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
with a tent, the question of where one is to spend the night. If, on the
other hand, one is provided with a tent, it involves a much larger
retinue, increased expense, excites even more distrust among the
natives, and becomes sometimes dangerous from arousing their cupidity,
and this necessitates having guards and escorts, which are the cause of
endless quarrels and annoyance, as the more people you have with you the
less are you your own master to go where you like, and the more
difficult it is to provide for man and beast. It is a choice of evils at
best of times, and the worry and discomfort can only be compensated for
by good luck in obtaining results, and this is by no means always to be
secured, though thus far on this particular journey I had had no reason
to complain. I now propose to tempt fate on the highlands to the east of
Lake Tiberias, with what success remains to be seen.
A NIGHT ADVENTURE NEAR THE LAKE OF TIBERIAS.
Haifa, February 28.—The tourist who follows the ordinary track of
Palestine travel from Jerusalem to Damascus inevitably passes Tiberias.
Standing on the flat roof of the convent, where, if he is not one of a
Cook's party, he is compelled to lodge, he has a splendid view of the
lake and of the precipitous cliffs opposite, which descend abruptly to
its margin from the elevated plateau behind, that averages two thousand
feet above the level of the lake. That sheet of water being nearly eight
hundred feet below the sea-level, the only engineering problem which
presents itself to the consideration of the surveyors who have been
engaged in tracing a railroad line between Haifa and Damascus is how to
ascend from this depression to the highlands above.
The solution of the problem is to be found in a large wide valley called
the Wady Samak, which is exactly opposite Tiberias, and up the unknown
recesses of which our tourist looks with longing eyes. Practically this
wady is a sealed book to the Palestine traveller. To explore it he would
have to obtain special permission from the government, with a guard, and
be exposed to all manner of extortion from his dragoman, who would take
advantage of his ignorance to magnify the dangers and add to the already
existing obstacles. Indeed, one of the most singular characteristics of
Palestine travel is the close proximity of unknown and unexplored
districts to beaten tracks. Just as it often happens in a large city,
that in the immediate neighborhood of one of the most frequented
thoroughfares there are back slums inhabited by thieves and criminals,
into which no respectable person penetrates, so, in Palestine, within
ten miles of a place like Tiberias, there are spots as yet untrodden by
the foot of the explorer; but these are all to the east of the lake and
of the Jordan. Almost every inch of western Palestine has succumbed to
the exhaustive researches of the Palestine Exploration Fund.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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