Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
Haifa, March 31.—From Khisfin, the ruins of which I described in my last
letter, I struck off in a westerly direction under the guidance of the
sheik who had been my host the night before, and who, now that he was
convinced that I had nothing to do with tax-gathering, and was only
possessed by what must have seemed to him an insane desire to find old
stones and make pictures of them, took an evident pleasure in
ministering to such a harmless form of insanity; in fact he became quite
a bore on the subject. As he was naturally unable to appreciate any
distinction between one old stone and another, he was constantly making
me ride out of my way to look at some weather-beaten piece of basalt
which had a fancied resemblance to a wild animal; or to a mound, the
ruins on which belonged to a village that had been deserted within the
last twenty years. Still I never could afford to treat his assurances
with indifference, as there was always the possibility, until I
satisfied myself to the contrary, that the stones to which he was
guiding me might possess interest; and indeed on one occasion they did,
for they turned out to be the ruins of a Roman town, where a few
fragments of columns and capitals still remained to bear testimony to
the particular civilization to which they belonged, and which, although
they did not present any striking architectural features—indeed, the
remains were somewhat insignificant—it was always a satisfaction to have
been the first to discover. The name of these ruins was Esfera.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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