Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
Haifa, March 20.—When we had sufficiently satisfied our curiosity with
regard to the dolmens, which I described in my last letter, the sheik
who was our guide disappeared suddenly over the edge of the plateau on
which they stood, down what seemed to be a precipice of black basalt.
His reply to our anxious inquiry as to whither he was leading us—“to
very old stones, with writing on them”—was a talismanic utterance which
at once overcame all hesitation. On such occasions there rises in the
mind of the cold and weary and half-starving traveller (and I answered
to this description at the moment) visions of possible Moabite stones,
trilingual inscriptions, and all the other prizes which reward
successful Palestine research. I felt, therefore, ready to make any
plunge into unknown depths that he might choose to suggest, but
certainly this was a bad one. Some two thousand feet below us, distant
not more than seven miles, gleamed the still waters of the Sea of
Galilee. We stood on the upper edge of one of the branches of the Wady
Samak, which leads down to it. To our left, scarce a mile off, we could
see the old crusading ruin of the Kasr Berdawil, or Baldwin's Castle,
perched on a promontory the sides of which are sheer precipices, thus
offering to the old warriors a position of magnificent strength. It is
one of the least known of the Crusading strongholds, but I was assured
by a friend, who, so far as I know, is the only traveller who has
visited it, that beyond a few crumbling walls there was absolutely
nothing to be seen, so, as I had better game in prospect, I did not turn
aside to it, as I had originally intended, but resolutely prepared to
risk my neck amid the basalt blocks of the cliff down which the sheik
was now disappearing. Fortunately, though it was a bad descent, it was
not a long one. I never could understand how my horse managed it, for I
had left him to take care of himself, finding my own legs a safer method
of descent; but in these lonely regions the instinct of not getting
separated from the rest of the party is as strong with animals as with
men, and they may generally be trusted to follow their companions.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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