Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
But they were not to be compared for picturesqueness or singularity of
appearance with the next _cortège_ which I overtook, and the aspect of
which, from a distance, puzzled me excessively. There appeared in front
of me a large object of some sort, which was being slowly dragged along
by a crowd of people who were evidently not natives of the country. On
reaching it I found that it was a huge bell, weighing seven or eight
tons, most elaborately ornamented with scriptural and sacred designs in
_basso-rilievo_, and which, placed on a truck with low wheels, was being
hauled by about eighty Russian peasants, more than half of whom were
women. Looking on this singular group of rugged-featured people, with
their light hair and Kalmuck countenances, one felt suddenly transported
from the hills of Palestine to the Steppes of Southern Russia. The men
wore high boots, baggy trousers, long full-skirted coats, tight at the
waist, and flat caps, and the women the sombre and dowdy habiliments
common to the Russian peasant class. They were all yoked by the breast
with ropes to the truck, tugging it slowly but cheerfully along, and
when I stopped and tried to stammer out the few words of Russian which I
still remembered, they greeted my attempts with loud shouts of laughter,
and made explanations which my knowledge of the language was too limited
to enable me to comprehend. But my curiosity was destined to be
satisfied at a later period on the arrival of this precious burden at
Jerusalem. Meantime I could not but regard with interest the eager
devotion of these poor people, and especially of the women, who were
thus satisfying a religious instinct by exercising the functions of
draught animals, and toiling up the road they deemed so sacred to the
holy city, which is invested with a higher sanctity to the adherents of
the Greek rite than to those of any other Christian communion. I found
afterwards that it took them just a week to drag their bell up to
Jerusalem, many falling ill by the way, and one dying, and
reinforcements had to be sent from Jerusalem to assist them.
Had it not been for the various houses which have been built for the
accommodation of travellers the mortality would probably have been
greater, but the increase of travel along this road has multiplied the
number of rest-houses, and there are now four or five of various degrees
of excellence, to say nothing of Greek and Catholic convents, more or
less far from the road, to which pilgrims can resort. The new hotel
which has just been put up by a German colonist at Ramleh is among the
most conspicuous of these improvements; and here, as the place is one of
some archæological interest, and I thought the enterprise of my host
deserved to be encouraged, I stayed to pass the night.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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