Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
With considerate ingenuity, and possibly with a view to lightening the
labors of the pilgrims as much as possible, the early Church crowded as
many sacred stones together under the roof of the holy edifice it could
with decency. Thus we have the Stone of Unction, on which Christ's body
was laid for anointing, but it was getting so worn that the real stone
lies below the marble slab, which, however, answers the purpose for the
pilgrims. Close by is the Circular Stone, where the Virgin stood while
the body was being anointed; also the stone on which Jesus stood when he
appeared to Mary Magdalene, and the stone on which she stood, and the
column to which he was bound when scourged; and your devout guide will
show you, if you have the patience to attend to him, the exact place
where Jesus was stripped by the soldiers, the place where the purple
robe was put on him, the place where the soldiers cast lots for his
raiment, the rent in the rock made by the earthquake, the place where
his body was wrapped in linen cloths, the place where he indicated with
his own hand the centre of the world, and so on, _ad nauseam_.
Sometimes another Church commits a burglary and steals some of these
stones. The Armenians have been especially guilty in this respect. They
have stolen from the holy sepulchre the stone on which the angel sat,
that had been rolled away from the door of the sepulchre, which they now
display in the chapel of the Palace of Caiaphas; also a piece of the
true cross, which was originally discovered under inspiration by Helena,
as well as that of the penitent thief, who is now canonized under the
name of Dimas. I don't know what authority they have for calling him
Dimas, whose reputed birthplace is, for political reasons, going to be
converted into another holy place. There is something rather appropriate
in the idea of the power that is waiting for a chance to despoil the
Turkish empire of Syria erecting a shrine in worship of the penitent
thief.
The most remarkable sites are those which illustrate the parables. Thus,
pilgrims are shown the window which was the post of observation of
Dives, and the stone, now worn by the kisses of the faithful, where
Lazarus sat when the dog licked his sores. I asked my guide where the
dog was, but he said he was dead, and added, with a smile, “I don't
believe any of these things.”
I asked him why not.
“Oh,” he replied, “I'm a Jew.”
After that the glibness with which he pattered off all the Christian
traditions was very edifying until my patience was exhausted, and I
said, “Well, supposing, as we neither of us believe in any of these
invented sites, we go and try and find something that is real.”
He had been in the service of some of the recent Jerusalem explorers,
and I afterwards found him an intelligent companion.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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