Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
It is due entirely to the Russians, and I think that a progressive
Jericho, owing to Russian enterprise, is a phenomenon worthy of remark.
Indirectly it may be attributed to the passion Russian pilgrims have for
bathing in the Jordan and carrying away bottles full of the water of
that sacred stream. This passion for holy ablutions is one which a wise
and far-seeing government has turned to profitable political account. It
was only in obedience to the most ordinary instincts of humanity that
some sort of accommodation should be provided for the pious crowds,
consisting largely of old and frail women, who trudge thirty miles in a
broiling sun to bathe in the Jordan, and who could not find a roof to
shelter them, or a place in which to be fed, until they got back to
Jerusalem. So a large, handsome, red-stone building, not unlike a state
lunatic asylum, has been erected for their accommodation at Jericho.
Here not only the Russian pilgrim, but the ordinary travelling lunatic,
can find first-class accommodation.
The protection which so handsome an establishment afforded was all that
was required to give a start to the place. Devout Russians, always
acting under the auspices of a pious, intelligent, and paternal
government, are beginning gradually to make Jericho a place of winter
resort. They build little cottages there, surround them with gardens
which supply them with most delicious fruit and vegetables, spend their
summers in Jerusalem, and come down here in the winter and bathe in the
Jordan to their hearts' content. In other words, in a religious and
quite unostentatious way, Russia is quietly colonizing Jericho. The
obnoxious word colony, so hateful to Turkish ears, is never pronounced,
but I counted no fewer than twelve neat little whitewashed cottages,
where a few years ago there was not one.
One of my travelling companions, who was an English medical man of some
eminence, was so much struck with the climatic advantages of the place
as a winter resort for consumptive patients that, now that good
accommodation is to be found there, he has decided to advise invalids to
try the effects of its air. Hitherto when one told a person “to go to
Jericho” it was a polite way of intimating to him that he might go
somewhere else, Jericho being the next hottest place known to that more
distant region; but now we may tell our friends to go to Jericho in a
spirit of benevolence, in the hope that it may restore them to health.
What an unbearable place, by the way, Jericho would be if all the bores
who have been metaphorically sent there had literally gone. As it is, I
cannot imagine a more agreeable place for a person not absolutely
dependent upon society to go to and spend a month or two in winter.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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