Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
been Jewish. The original walls have been added to by a sloping scarp
having been built against them, so that the wall, which is about
fourteen feet high, is nine feet thick at the bottom, and about three
feet thick at the top. Inside are some fragments of columns, capitals,
and a door lintel, which has recently fallen from the principal
entrance, on which are carved two wreaths, flanked by two double-handled
pitchers, and in the centre an amphora.
There are no inhabitants at Shiloh now, so we pushed on to Singil, a
village situated about three thousand feet above the sea-level, and
commanding a most magnificent view. The villagers here showed me some
foundations of what they said had been an old castle built by a certain
King Sinbil, but I strongly suspect that they substituted the b for a g,
as the village takes its name from a certain Crusading hero, who was
afterwards canonized and became St. Gilles, and that here he built
himself a castle. The natives also sent me into a cave on a wild goose
chase after an inscription, which, after much scrambling with lighted
tapers, I failed to find.
We had now left Judea, and were entering ancient Samaria, which is
governed, not from Jerusalem, but Damascus, the seat of government being
Nablous, a large town of about twenty thousand inhabitants, whose
principal industry is the manufacture of soap, with which they supply
almost the whole country. The town is squeezed in between the lofty
hills of Ebal and Gerizim, both of which are over three thousand feet
above the sea-level. This is the valley of Shechem. Nothing can exceed
in picturesqueness the situation of this place and the beauty of its
surroundings, especially when the almond and peach trees are in bloom in
the valley. The steep hillsides seem to be a mass of huge cactuses;
these are used to line the terraces of the vineyards as hedges, but as
they are great absorbers of vitality from the soil, I should think they
must impoverish the land. In the autumn these ungainly plants are
thickly covered with fruit about the size of a large fig, when ripe of a
bright red. They are full of small seeds, but sweet and refreshing. The
natives gorge themselves upon them, as they are esteemed wholesome, but
they are traps to the unwary and inexperienced of the most painful kind,
being covered outside with diminutive and almost invisible prickly
hairs. The first time I ever tried to eat one I filled my mouth with
these unpleasant little spikes, and spent half an hour with my tongue
out, while a friend was engaged with a pair of tweezers extracting each
individual irritant, but then he only partially succeeded, and for the
rest of the day I felt as if I had tried to swallow half a chopped-up
hair-brush. The natives pick the fruit by digging a pronged iron into
them, with which they twitch them off the stalk; they then roll them on
the ground, so as to get the hairy prickles off, and then carefully peel
them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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