Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
Of all the tombs that of Hillel is the most remarkable. It is a huge
cavern on the steep hillside, situated about half-way between the
Courtyard of Shrines above, and the stream below. We first enter a
chamber with loculi hewn out of the solid rock on each side. Passing
through a doorway cut in the rock, we enter a chamber eighteen feet by
twenty-five, with seven loculi in recess on the right, and the same
number on the left, while facing us is a recess eighteen feet deep and
seven wide, containing four sarcophagi hewn out of the rock. On each
side of this recess is a smaller one, each containing four loculi. Most
of them are covered by stone lids with raised corners, making in all
thirty-six rock tombs in this one cave. The rocks all around are much
cut in places into steps, cisterns, and olive-presses. There are also
three dolmens on the north side of Meiron; they are not far apart, and
are quite distinct, though of small dimensions; there are no traces or
marks of any kind on the stones. In the shrine above these are chambers
which are pointed out as traditional tombs. Near one of these was the
synagogue, in which, when I visited it, there were an old man and his
son engaged in their devotions. The old man had never left the room day
or night for seven years, having lived the whole of that time on one
meal a day of bread and water, while he slept on a mat on the stones. He
had thus become invested with the odour of sanctity in the eyes of my
Jewish companions. His son, a boy of fifteen, was rapidly praying
himself into the state of imbecility at which his venerable parent, by
dint of swaying his body to and fro, and his unceasing chanting, had
already arrived. He reminded me of the Buddhist hermits whom I have seen
in China on their way to Nirvana, and was a sight more painful than
edifying. At the corners of the courtyard are stone erections like
fonts, and some of these are also near the rock tombs; these, when the
Jewish festival of “the burning” takes place, are filled with oil, which
is set on fire, and rich Jews, desirous of showing their devotion, offer
to the flames the most costly articles in their possession. The richest
shawls, scarfs, handkerchiefs, and the rarest books are dipped in oil
and consumed, and when any article of special value is burned, the
spectators, who are already intoxicated with wine and excitement, burst
forth with frantic plaudits of delight. Such was the account given to me
by eye-witnesses, but possibly next year I may be able to give you a
description of this unique and little-known festival from personal
observation.
About fifty yards higher up the hill is one of the most interesting
Jewish ruins existing in Palestine. It is the remains of a synagogue,
which, according to Jewish tradition, dates from fifty years after the
destruction of Jerusalem.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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