Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
As I approached at that hour my expectations were excited by the reports
of the discharge of pistols and guns, and the sounds of the discordant
chorus-chanting which forms the usual accompaniment to the native
dances. Passing under the archway and entering the large courtyard of
the monastery, I found it nearly full of excited groups in large
circles, their arms clasped around each other's necks, swaying their
bodies to and fro, and keeping time with their feet to their songs,
while they occasionally waved their arms aloft and fired in the air.
This is the regular Syrian dance of the towns, and it is sufficiently
monotonous. The Fellahin, however, have a far more picturesque
performance, in which the girls, in bright-coloured garments, join,
dancing singly, or in twos and threes. Of these, unfortunately, there
were very few. No doubt it was in consequence of the small attendance
that there had not been so much drinking as usual, and I only saw one
man captured by half a dozen Turkish soldiers, who must have a curious
idea of Christian devotions, for an improper use of his fist.
About this time the guest-chambers and corridors of the monastery—where
families of the better class who had come from Acre, Tyre, Nazareth,
Jaffa, and other towns had passed the night, in the lodging provided for
them—began to disgorge, and the variety of costume displayed by the
shouting, singing, and dancing multitude formed a scene sufficiently
picturesque and animated. Sometimes processions are formed, where
offerings are made to the miracle-working statue of Notre Dame de Mont
Carmel, in return for a child that has been prayed for, or a sick person
who has been healed, but on this occasion her protection did not seem to
have been invoked, or, at all events, there was no public display of
gratitude. There is a large terrace in front of the monastery, and here
a dozen horsemen or so were throwing the djerrid and exhibiting their
equestrian skill, much to the detriment of the unfortunate animals they
bestrode, whose flanks were bleeding profusely from the pointed angles
of the iron stirrups which serve as spurs, and from the cruel bits by
which, when going at full speed, they were jerked back upon their
haunches.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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