Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
Haifa, July 31.—The greatest religions festival of the year in these
parts takes place on the 20th of July at the Monastery of Mount Carmel,
and is called the Feast of St. Elias. It does not rank in the Roman
Catholic Church generally as one of the highest importance, but among
the Maronites, Melchites, and the Latin Oriental Church, as well as
among the Carmelites themselves, it is par excellence the great annual
ecclesiastical event. From all parts of Palestine worshippers of all
ranks flock to the sacred grotto, and on the evening before the saint's
day as many as five or six thousand souls are often assembled on the
rugged promontory and in the enclosures surrounding the monastery.
Hither I repaired about six o'clock on the evening of the 19th, and
sipped coffee, smoked cigarettes, and chatted with the reverend fathers,
while I looked out of the iron-barred windows on the multitude
assembling beneath them. It was composed for the most part of vendors of
fruit, sweetmeats, and refreshments of all sorts, who were establishing
their stalls for the night in sheltered nooks, for the feast begins at
midnight, and is carried on till nine o'clock next day, being, in fact,
a species of religious orgy, which appears to have great fascination for
the native Christian mind. It must be admitted that devotions which
consist chiefly in dancing and drinking, with an occasional free fight,
all through the small hours of the morning, are religious exercises of a
kind not unlikely to attract the country people, who go in for a sort of
holy spree on a scale of large proportions. This year, however, a
general panic which pervaded the country in consequence of the cholera
in Egypt reduced the numbers materially, especially of the Fellahin,
among whom all kinds of absurd rumours were prevalent that the disease
had spread to Haifa, and that the monastery itself was in quarantine.
After watching the picturesque arrivals for some time, I declined an
invitation to spend the night in the monastery, and determined to return
next morning at five o'clock, when I was assured that the fun would be
fast and furious.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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