Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
One day a magnificent figure of a man, armed with sword and pistol,
suddenly entered my tent. I asked him where he had come from. He said
from the Jebel Druse, and, seeing a foreign tent, he had turned in to
see who I was. So we exchanged confidences. He was, in fact, an outlaw.
He had been fighting against the government, and was wandering from one
Druse village to another, not daring to go back to his own, which was in
the Lebanon. He said that at this moment the Druses of the Jebel Druse
were in full revolt against the Turkish government; that no Druse dare
show himself in Damascus, and no Turk dare show himself in the Jebel
Druse. They had defied the Governor-General, who knew that it would be
useless in their wild mountains to attempt to conquer them. He offered
to take me to the Jebel Druse, if I would avoid all places where there
were any Turks. He had a profound contempt for his coreligionists of
Dalieh and Esfia. “I am ashamed of such Druses,” he said. “Why, I saw a
Moslem insult one, the other day, and, instead of killing him, he walked
away. Why don't they leave a place where they dare not punish insult,
and come to the mountain?” I have rarely seen a finer specimen of
humanity than this man was, and, with all the defiant recklessness and
daring of his expression, there was the charm of entire frankness and
good-nature combined with it.
Besides the two villages on Carmel, there are fourteen Druse villages,
nearly all within sight of it, on the southern slopes of the mountains
of Galilee. It is not improbable that, unable to support the military
conscription and taxation which presses upon them, the inhabitants may,
before long, abandon their present homes, and go to swell the numbers of
their brethren in the Jebel Druse. The whole population of the Druse
nation is about 120,000; they can put into the field 25,000 men of the
best fighting material in Turkey; they are slowly migrating to the Jebel
Druse, where about two thirds of the nation have already asserted their
semi-independence.
EXPLORATION ON CARMEL.
Haifa, Sept. 24.—During the two months that I have been camped on the
highest summit of Mount Carmel, I have visited no fewer than twenty
ruins of ancient towns and villages. Of these I have discovered six
which were heretofore unknown, the others having been found ten years
ago by the officers of the Royal Engineers sent out to survey Palestine
by the Society for Palestine Exploration.
Prior to that time, this historic locality was a _terra incognita_. The
tourists who visited the mountain, like the pilgrims who journeyed
thither for devotional reasons, satisfied themselves with a short stay
at the convent, and even then did not understand that they were only on
one mountain spur of a highland region thirty-five miles in
circumference, where almost every hilltop was crowned with a ruin, and
every gorge might open up new and unexpected beauties of scenery.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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