Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
The town now contains only about nine thousand inhabitants, cooped up by
the fortifications in the very limited area of about fifty acres; and it
is more picturesque than agreeable to live in. There is no more
characteristic bazaar in the East than that of Acre, with its motley
crowd of wild Bedouins from the desert, Persian devotees gathering
around a Persian holy man who has taken up his residence here, Turkish
soldiers who form its garrison, Druses, with their white turbans and
striped abeihs, or overcoats, Metawalis, who are wild and gipsy-looking
Moslem schismatics, Syrian Christians, and Moslem peasantry; add to
these veiled women, long strings of camels, with an occasional
foreigner, or sailor from a merchant-ship in the harbour, and you get a
population as varied as any town in the country can show. Acre,
therefore, is a most interesting place to spend a day in, apart from any
antiquarian attraction it may possess, or monuments of more modern
architecture which are worthy of attention.
There are few finer mosques in Syria than that of Jezzar Pacha, which
stands within a large rectangular area, where there are vaulted
galleries, supported by ancient columns ornamented by capitals brought
from the ruins of Tyre and Cæsarea. Along these galleries have been
built cells, destined for the people employed at the mosque, or the
pilgrims who came to visit it. They surround a magnificent court, under
which are cisterns, and upon which are palms, cypress, and other trees.
Among them are white marble tombs, notably those of Jezzar and Suleiman
Pacha. The town contains three other mosques, the columns in which and
the pavement have certainly belonged to more ancient buildings. There
are four Christian churches in the city, which belong to the Roman
Catholics, the Schismatic Greeks, the Maronites, and the United Greeks
respectively. Under the house of the Sisters of Nazareth and the
neighbouring houses extend vast vaulted cellars which are now divided by
walls of separation, and belong to different proprietors; they are
doubtless of crusading origin. Deep cisterns also date from that period.
Of the same date also are certain remains of walls and vaults near the
convent, which are the ruins of a church almost completely destroyed.
The most remarkable khan is near the port, called the Khan el Aurid on
account of its columns, the galleries surrounding it being built on
pillars of gray or red granite, covered by capitals of different orders,
brought from more ancient monuments.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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