Hans Holbein the Younger, Volume 1 (of 2)Chamberlain, Arthur B. (Arthur Bensley)
History
Hans Holbein the Younger, Volume 1 (of 2)
Chamberlain, Arthur B. (Arthur Bensley)
Holbein, Hans, 1497-1543 -- Criticism and interpretation; Painters -- Germany -- Biography
Among the drawings and designs of this period which were not made for
the purpose of reproduction in painted glass, the set representing the
costumes worn by contemporary Basel ladies is among the most important.
There are six of these,[348] or rather five, for the sixth, which
represents a _fille de joie_ with large hat and low-cut dress (Pl. 51
(1)), is not regarded as a work from Holbein’s own hand. They are pen
and wash drawings, and, with the exception of the last one, were in
Amerbach’s possession. It is not easy to say exactly for what purpose
they were made, but certainly not for painted glass. It has been
suggested that they represent designs for dresses invented by
Holbein—sixteenth-century fashion plates—which the ladies of Basel
afterwards used as models; but a simpler and more natural explanation is
that they are merely studies of costume made from time to time when
Holbein saw a dress which pleased him, which would be of use in the
carrying out of his wall-paintings, or his book illustrations, or in
other ways. They appear to have been done during his first years in
Basel. Perhaps the earliest of them is the one of the noble lady with a
hat covered with ostrich feathers,[349] and her hair confined in a
silken net at the back, who wears a dress of watered silk with a train,
which she holds up with her right hand. This, according to Dr. Ganz, is
of about the date 1516 or 1517, and in draughtsmanship and handling has
much in common with the portrait of Meyer’s wife, Dorothea, while the
embroidery and tassel-work of the bodice in both the drawing and the
picture are very similar. The drawing of the Basel “Edeldame” (Pl.
52),[350] taken almost from the back, which is the most beautiful of the
series, is certainly a little later in date, and shows great freedom,
delicacy, and truth of draughtsmanship. Her hair is covered with a
semi-transparent striped gauze cap, of a similar pattern to the one in
the portrait of the burgomaster’s wife. The neck and shoulders are
covered with fine white lawn, and the plain dress is only relieved by
deep bands of velvet, and a girdle from which is suspended a metal case
of chased work for a measure or “house-wife” at the end of a long band.
At least two ladies appear to have served Holbein as a model for these
studies. The “Frau Burgermeister,” Dorothea Kannengiesser, posed as the
Baseler “Burgersfrau,”[351] and perhaps as the “Edeldame,” while for the
remaining studies, among them that of the patrician dame with the
feather hat already described, a model of a more lovely and a more
wanton appearance served him, who later on was painted by him as “Laïs
Corinthiaca.” In a second drawing of the set the same lady appears in a
gown with puffed sleeves and deep velvet bands, embroidered petticoat
and head-dress, and wearing a number of ornaments round her neck,
including an openwork collar with the word “AMOR.”[352] The same model
appears in a third drawing (Pl. 51 (2)), in which she poses as a
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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