Harper's New Monthly Magazine, No. VI, November 1850, Vol. IVarious
History
Harper's New Monthly Magazine, No. VI, November 1850, Vol. I
Various
American literature -- Periodicals; Civilization -- Periodicals; Culture -- Periodicals
This reflection hastened the dressing and breakfasting operations of the
Professor, who tumbled up on deck at about ten o'clock in the morning.
The storm had been subdued for several hours, and there was a visible
decrease in the height of the waves. He took up his old position on the
cuddy-roof, and soon observed, that, even then, when the sea was
comparatively quiet, ten waves overtook the vessel in succession, which
all rose above the apparent horizon; consequently they must have been
more than twenty-three feet--probably about twenty-six feet--from ridge
to hollow. From the larboard paddle-box, to which the Professor once
more scrambled, he observed that occasionally four or five waves in
succession rose above the visible horizon--hence they must have been
more than thirty feet waves. He also observed that the waves no longer
ran in long ridges, but presented more the form of cones of moderate
elongation.
Having so far satisfied himself as to the height of Atlantic waves in a
gale of wind (the Professor's estimate must not be taken as the
measurement of the highest known waves, but simply as that of a rough
Atlantic sea), he directed his attention to minuter and more difficult
observations. He determined to measure the period of time occupied by
the regular waves in overtaking the ship, their width from crest to
crest, and the rate of their traveling. The first point to be known was
the speed of the ship; this he ascertained to be nine knots. His next
object was to note her course in reference to the direction of the
waves. He found that the true course of the vessel was east, and that
the waves came from the west-northwest, so that they passed under the
vessel at a considerable angle. The length of the ship was stated to be
two hundred and twenty feet. Provided with this information the
Professor renewed his observations. He proceeded to count the seconds
the crest of a wave took to travel from stern to stem of the vessel;
these he ascertained to be six. He then counted the time which
intervened between the moment when one crest touched the stern of the
vessel, and the next touched it, and he found the average interval to
be sixteen seconds and a fraction. These results gave him at once the
width between crest and crest. As the crest traveled two hundred and
twenty feet (or the length of the vessel) in six seconds, and sixteen
seconds elapsed before the next crest touched the stern, it was clear
that the wave was nearly three times the length of the vessel; to write
accurately, there was a distance of six hundred and five feet from crest
to crest.
The Professor did not forget that the oblique course of the ship
elongated her line over the waves; this elongation he estimated at
forty-five feet, reducing the probable average distance between crest
and crest to five hundred and fifty-nine feet.
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