Harper's New Monthly Magazine, No. VII, December 1850, Vol. IIVarious
General
Harper's New Monthly Magazine, No. VII, December 1850, Vol. II
Various
American literature -- Periodicals; Civilization -- Periodicals; Culture -- Periodicals
As we have said, the Cashmere shawl became the rage. The farce of
pretended equality in France was acted out, and the curtain dropped on
it in preparation for quite a different tableau; people no longer risked
their lives by dressing elegantly, and it was not now expected that the
_soubrette_, the _blanchisseuse_, or the _poissonnière_ should dress
precisely the same as the lady of a general officer. There was wealth,
too, in the land, and the enormous sums demanded for these shawls were
readily forthcoming. Sums equivalent to two or three hundred pounds of
our money were commonly paid even for soiled worn articles, which had
done duty as turbans to Mogul soldiers, or girded a Bayadere's waist, or
been the sacerdotal garment of an idolatrous priest--and had very
frequently been thus used by more than one generation. It is true, the
durability of the fabric and the lasting properties of the dyes,
permitted the cleansing of these shawls with scarcely perceptible injury
or deterioration, but still it was only the intrinsic merit of the
thing, which could have overcome the natural repugnance which the known
or suspected history of a Cashmere must in many instances have
occasioned.
The Levant traders had now large commissions, and the result was that
_new_ shawls were soon more easily procurable, but still bearing an
enormous price. This is readily accounted for, and a brief description
of the manufacture of Indian shawls will show how it is that they never
can be cheap:--The wool of the Thibet goat is the finest in the world,
and for the best shawls only the finest even of this wool is used. The
animals are shorn once a year, and a full-grown goat only produces about
eight ounces of wool of this first quality. There is every reason to
suppose that the climate has very much to do with the perfection of the
animal, for attempts to naturalize it elsewhere have all more or less
failed. The loom on which a Cashmere shawl is woven is of the rudest and
most primitive description, the warp being supported by two sticks, and
the woof entirely worked in by the human hand. This slow laborious
process permits a neatness and exactness of finish beyond the power of
any machinery to rival; and when we take into account a life-long
practice in the art, and--remembering the Hindoo "castes," which usually
limit a family to the exercise of a single craft--in most instances the
family secrets and traditions which have been preserved, we cease to
wonder at the perfection of the work. These Asiatic weavers, temperate
in their habits and readily contented, receive a wage of from
three-halfpence to twopence a day; but if their wants more nearly
approximated to those of an European laborer, what would an Indian
Cashmere be worth, when we are informed that from thirty to forty men
have sometimes been employed from eighteen months to two years in the
manufacture of a single shawl! There is something very kindling to the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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