Harper's New Monthly Magazine, No. VII, December 1850, Vol. IIVarious
General
Harper's New Monthly Magazine, No. VII, December 1850, Vol. II
Various
American literature -- Periodicals; Civilization -- Periodicals; Culture -- Periodicals
It must not, however, be supposed that in the progressive nineteenth
century, even this Asiatic manufacture has remained stationary.
Receiving the impetus of fashion, the shawls of Cashmere have become,
within the last dozen years, richer and more elaborate than ever; their
richness and elaboration of pattern necessitating even a firmer and more
substantial groundwork than heretofore, but still the method of their
manufacture remains unchanged, as might be expected from the
conservatism inseparable from semi-barbarism. London is now one of the
chief marts for Cashmeres. It may not be generally known that London
dealers send quantities of shawls to France, America, Russia, and even
Turkey, a convincing proof of the enterprise of British merchants. They
supply many other foreigners, especially finding a market among them for
the gold embroidered shawls, which are frequently worn on state
occasions at foreign courts. The duty on Indian shawls is now only about
five per cent. Twice a year there are public sales, to which dealers are
invited by catalogues sent to Paris and other continental cities. One of
the great merits of a Cashmere seems that it is really never out of
date; and when, comparing even the old "pine" patterns with the large
long shawls, the rich borders of which sweep in graceful flowing lines
into the very centre, we feel that they are still "of one family," and
hold together--if the comparison be not too fanciful--rich and poor, in
right clannish fashion.
Some of the most modern and most costly Indian shawls _resemble_ in
pattern that of the long French Cashmere, simply however because the
French have _copied_ the Indian design. The gold and silver thread
employed for the embroidery of Cashmere shawls is usually prepared in
the following manner; and the chief seat of the manufacture is at
Boorhampoor, a city of the Deccan. A piece of the purest ore is beaten
into a cylindrical form about the size of a thick reed, and then beaten
out in length until it will pass through an orifice the eighth of an
inch in diameter; it is drawn through still finer perforations until it
is reduced to the proportion of a bobbin thread. Now a different plan is
pursued; the wire already produced is wound upon several reels which
work upon pivots, the ends of the thread being passed through still
finer holes, and then affixed to a large reel which is set rapidly in
motion and still further attenuates the threads. It is afterward
flattened on an anvil of highly polished steel, by a practiced and
dexterous workman; and by an ingenious process, a silk thread is
afterward plated, or sheathed as it were by this minute wire. It is
asserted that if a lump of silver be gilt in the first instance before
being drawn into wire, it will retain the gilding through all the
subsequent hard usage of hammering, winding, and drawing to which it is
subjected, coming out to the very last a gilded thread. It is easy to
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