Harper's New Monthly Magazine, No. XXVII, August 1852, Vol. VVarious
History
Harper's New Monthly Magazine, No. XXVII, August 1852, Vol. V
Various
American literature -- Periodicals; Civilization -- Periodicals; Culture -- Periodicals
A few days after the arrival of the frigate, a pic-nic excursion to
the shores of Lake Agnano was proposed. The party was to consist of
the persons of whom I have just been speaking, together with a few
other English friends, chiefly gentlemen from the embassy.
Accordingly they set off on one of those delightful mornings which
are of themselves almost sufficient to make strangers exclaim with
the enthusiastic Neapolitans, "_Vedi Napoli e poi mori!_" The
surpassing loveliness of the scene, its perfect repose with so many
elements of action, brought to the soul such a luxurious sense of
passive enjoyment, that it seemed like the echo of all experienced
happiness. I can not say if the _Strada Nuova_, in all its present
paved perfection, then existed; but there must have been some sort
of a road following the indentations of that lovely shore.
I have traced from Genoa to Nice the far-famed windings of the
Maritime Alps--I have sailed along the glittering shores of the
Bosphorus--I have admired the boasted site of the Lusitanian
capital--and yet I feel, as all travelers must feel, that the
combined charms of all these would fail to make another Naples.
Far out before them lay the fair island of Capri, like a sea
goddess, with arms outstretched to receive the playful waters of the
Mediterranean. Behind, Vesuvius rose majestically, the blue smoke
lazily curling from its summit, as peaceful as if it had only been
placed there as an accessory to the beauty of the scene; and further
on, as they turned the promontory, lay the bright islets of Nisita
and Procida, so fantastic in their shapes and so romantic in their
outlines.
On reaching the shore of Lake Agnano, our travelers left their
carriage near the villa of Lucullus. Of course they suffocated
themselves, according to the approved habit of tourists, in the
vapor baths of San Germano--and according to the same approved
habit, devoted an unfortunate dog to temporary strangulation in the
mephitic air of the _Grotta del cane_. After doing up the lions of
the neighborhood, our friends seated themselves near the shore, to
partake of the cold fowls and champagne, of which ample provision
had been made for the excursion.
"I should have preferred the native _Lachrymæ Christi_ to
champagne," interrupted the Dutchman, "if the usual quality compares
with that of some I once drank at Rotterdam."
The repast finished, resumed the Frenchman, most of the party
strolled off to the other extremity of the lake--until after a short
time no one was left but Miss V----, who was amusing herself by
making a sketch of the landscape. What a pity that the women of
other nations are so rarely accomplished in drawing, while the
English ladies are almost universally so!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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