Harper's New Monthly Magazine, Vol. III, No. XVII, October 1851Various
History
Harper's New Monthly Magazine, Vol. III, No. XVII, October 1851
Various
American literature -- Periodicals; Civilization -- Periodicals; Culture -- Periodicals
The letter was addressed, "the Count Louis de Marsanne, Chateau
d'Ettenheim, à Bade," and thither I accordingly repaired, traveling over
the Arlberg to Bregenz, and across the Lake of Constance to Freyburg. My
passport contained a very few words in cipher, which always sufficed to
afford me free transit and every attention from the authorities. I had
left the southern Tyrol in the outburst of a glorious spring, but as I
journeyed northward I found the rivers frozen, the roads encumbered with
snow, and the fields untilled and dreary-looking. Like all countries
which derive their charms from the elements of rural beauty, foliage,
and verdure, Germany offers a sad-colored picture to the traveler in
winter or wintry weather.
It was thus then that the Grand Duchy, so celebrated for its picturesque
beauty, struck me as a scene of dreary and desolate wildness, an
impression which continued to increase with every mile I traveled from
the high road. A long unbroken flat, intersected here and there by
stunted willows, traversed by a narrow earth road, lay between the Rhine
and the Taunus Mountains, in the midst of which stood the village of
"Ettenheim." Outside the village, about half a mile off, and on the
border of a vast pine forest, stood the Chateau.
It was originally a hunting-seat of the dukes of Baden, but, from
neglect and disuse, gradually fell into ruin, from which it was
reclaimed, imperfectly enough, a year before, and now exhibited some
remnants of its former taste, along with the evidences of a far less
decorative spirit; the lower rooms being arranged as a stable, while the
stair and entrance to the first story opened from a roomy coach-house.
Here some four or five conveyances of rude construction were gathered
together, splashed and unwashed as if from recent use; and at a small
stove in a corner was seated a peasant in a blue frock smoking, as he
affected to clean a bridle which he held before him.
Without rising from his seat he saluted me, with true German phlegm, and
gave me the "Guten Tag," with all the grave unconcern of a "Badener." I
asked if the Count de Marsanne lived there. He said yes, but the "Graf"
was out hunting. When would he be back? By nightfall.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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