Hawthorne, Nathaniel, 1804-1864 -- Friends and associates; Novelists, American -- 19th century -- Biography
The Storys were also in Rome during these last months of our stay, and
Miss Mitchell, I think, still lingered in her little lodgings in the Via
Bocca di Leone. Miss Cushman likewise reappeared for a time, with all
her former greatness and fascination, and many other friends, new and
old, made that spring season memorable. As the moment for our departure
drew near, the magical allurement of Rome laid upon us a grasp more
than ever potent; it was impossible to realize that we were leaving it
forever. On the last evening we walked in the moonlight to the fountain
of Trevi, near our lodgings, and drank of the water--a ceremony which,
according to tradition, insures the return of the drinker. It was the
25th of May, forty-four years ago. None of us has gone back since then,
and, of the five who drank, three have passed to the country whence
no traveller returns. For my own part, as a patriotic American nearly
thirteen years old, I had no wish ever again to see Rome, and declared
myself glad to turn my back upon it, not that I had any fault to find
with it--I had always had a good time there--but my imagination was full
of my native land, with which nothing else could be comparable. I did
not learn of the fabled spell of Trevi until afterwards; then I scoffed
at and defied it, and possibly Rome may have decided that it could do
without me.
The railway to Civita Vecchia had just been completed, and we passed
swiftly over the route which had been so full of dangers and discomforts
eighteen months before. Embarking on the steamer for Marseilles, we kept
on thence to Avignon, where we spent about a week. This venerable
town had few attractions for me; I did not much care for the
fourteenth-century popes, nor for the eighteenth-century silks, nor even
for Petrarch and Laura; and the architecture of the palace, after I had
tried to sketch it, ceased to exhilarate me. My father was in no mood
for sight-seeing, either, but he went through it all conscientiously. My
mother, of course, enjoyed herself, but she met with an accident. While
sketching some figures of saints and monsters that adorned the arch of
the northern portal of the palace, she made an incautious movement and
sprained her ankle. The pain was excessive for the moment, but it soon
passed off, so as to enable her to limp back to our hotel. But the next
day the pain was worse; my father had a headache, a rare affliction with
him; I had caught a bad cold from swimming in the arrowy Rhone, and Una
and Miss Shepard were both in a state of exhaustion from sight-seeing;
and in this condition the journey to Geneva had to be made. We had
intended to remain there but a day, but we stayed longer, breathing the
pure air from the Alps, and feeling better as we breathed. I stood on
a bridge and looked down at that wonderful azure water rushing into the
lovely lake; I looked up and beheld those glorious mountains soaring
into the sky, and I forgot Rome and Florence, and almost America, in my
joy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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