Art -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel; Europe -- History
Strasbourg is much more interesting and poetic, with great refinement
and originality in design, though its taste is far from impeccable, its
structural sense gravely deficient. The tendency is wholly toward
lace-like and fantastic design, but it has little resemblance to the
late French flamboyant with its curving and interlacing lines; instead,
it is more suggestive of the English perpendicular, with its scaffolding
of vertical lines applied to, but not a part of, the basic fabric. It
has no consistency of plan, for the eastern end, with its semicircular
apse and portions of its transepts, is of a singularly noble type of
twelfth-century Romanesque, while the nave is mid-thirteenth century and
the tower and upper portion of the west front are a hundred years later.
Confused as it is, there is an extraordinary charm about it all, for
every part is personal and distinguished, full of novel and poetic ideas
and all kinds of unaffected touches of genius. The wonderful colour of
the exterior and the singularly fine glass of the interior have much to
do with its general effect of a delicate mediæval loveliness that makes
amends for its architectural shortcomings.
Of the castle architecture of the Rhine there is
[Illustration: STRASBOURG]
little left from the mediæval period from which one can gain an adequate
idea of its excellence, which was probably great. As in Luxembourg,
everything has been shattered into wildly picturesque ruins which are
outside the category of architecture, and such Renaissance work as
Heidelberg is quite as far without the same category, though for another
reason; here even picturesqueness of site and dilapidation cannot make
amends for ignorance, assurance, and excruciating taste. As a matter of
fact, the best architecture of the Rhine is the domestic building of the
sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, the half timber, many-gabled
structures that give the little Rhine towns a charm that is unexcelled
and testify to the native sense of beauty in the common people, when
they were left alone and not confused by the self-satisfied and ill-bred
interference of the connoisseur.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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