Art -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel; Europe -- History
It is not so long ago that half the towns in France between the Seine
and the Belgian frontier were threaded by wonderful little streets of
stone-built and half-timber houses three centuries old, and bright with
squares and market-places framed in old architecture of Francis I and
Henri II. Their quaint and delicate beauty was too much for the
nineteenth century, however, which revolted against an old art as it
revolted against an old culture and an older religion, so nearly all are
gone, their place being taken by substitutes, the destruction of which
could hardly be counted against the Prussians for unrighteousness, if
one considered æsthetic questions alone, which is, fortunately,
impossible. For these dim old streets and sunny silent squares one
could, until a few months ago, go confidently across the border, finding
in Flanders, Brabant, Liége, and Luxembourg relief from the appalling
sophistication that had taken possession of the old cities of Champagne.
Even in France, until last year, were Douai, Pont-à-Mousson, Meaux, and
of course Arras, though now of some of these worse than nothing remains.
In the latter city was once, also, a particularly splendid example of
those great civic halls that showed forth the pride and the independence
of the industrial cities of the later Middle Ages, and another stood in
Douai. As Flanders and Brabant are, however, the chosen places for this
particular manifestation of an industrial civilisation, so different to
our own in spirit and in expression, we may include them therewith,
where they racially and historically belong; and having followed the
development of an essentially religious art in France from Jumièges to
Beauvais, note its translation in later years into civic forms, in the
little and heroic Kingdom with so great and heroic a history, now and
for many months shut off from the world still free, by the veil of smoke
and poisoned gases.
VII
THE BURGHERS AND THEIR BUILDING
The great civic halls were those of Audenaarde, Brussels, Louvain,
Malines, Termonde, Bruges, Ghent, Ypres, and Arras, and each of these
cities was as well full of wonderful old houses, some private
residences, some quarters for the various guilds. It is impossible to
discriminate between past and present tense in describing them; some are
wholly gone, as Ypres and Arras, others we suppose still remain, but how
long this may be true one cannot say. If we lose what we have lost in
the onrush of a victorious army, and in its long holding of defensive
lines in the most amazing siege in history, what may we not expect at
the hands of an army in defeat, fighting its way back to its own
frontiers for a last desperate stand? Arras, Ypres, and Louvain were
hard enough to lose, but the soul shudders at the thought of Bruges and
Ghent, Antwerp and Brussels, fought over day after day and abandoned to
pillage and destruction.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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