Art -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel; Europe -- History
Each panel of this colossal and almost interminable wall was destined
for great historical pictures, most of which had been completed, and the
effect was majestical in its combination of colour and carpentry. Of it
all nothing now remains, as I have said, except a single turret at one
end. The greatest surviving monument of the civic architecture of the
Middle Ages has been slowly pounded to powder, and has taken its place
with the other lost masterpieces of a world that from time to time can
create but can somehow never retain ability to enjoy or even to
understand. Month after month it was the special target of Prussian
shells; the first breeched the wall to the right of the tower and were
followed by others that started fires which swept the building from end
to end, consuming the enormous timbered roof, destroying the painted
walls, crumbling the tracery of the tall tower. For a time the
burned-out walls remained, and German professors spoke gently and with
bland reassurance of the simple task of restoration, but this last
indignity has ceased to threaten, for recently the batteries have
resumed their work; little by little the belfry has been shot away, the
fretted arcades have been splintered into road-metal, and now at last
the destruction is complete; what once was the glory of Ypres, the pride
of Flanders, the delight of the architect, is now only a heap of refuse
masonry, with one pinnacle standing alone, accusing, in the midst of
ruin from which there is no salvation, for which history will search in
vain for shadow of excuse.
In sequence of time, the old “Halles” of Malines come next, as portions
of them date from 1311, but they have been reconstructed at various
times, enlarged in several styles, and in the end were never completed,
for their great belfry never succeeded in getting above the roof.
Nevertheless they were a wonderfully picturesque and even theatrical
composition of pointed portals, fantastic gables, dormers, and turrets,
and a very engaging epitome of five centuries of architectural
mutations.
The Hôtel de Ville of Bruges is as consistent and perfect as Malines was
casual and irresponsible. It was begun in 1376, the corner-stone being
laid by Louis de Mâle, and if there is anywhere a more complete example
of civic architecture,
[Illustration: BRUGES, HÔTEL DE VILLE]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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