Art -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel; Europe -- History
Brussels followed Bruges, and its huge City Hall was begun about 1404.
Compared with Arras, Bruges, or Louvain, it is dry and somewhat
unimaginative, with a curious modern look that may, in part, be due to
very drastic restorations and to the devilish ingenuity in destruction
of the French Revolutionists. In the beginning, however, it failed in
subtle proportions, and in point of composition as well. Its belfry,
graceful as it is, is thin and artificial in effect, while the façade is
formal without the grave majesty of Ypres, rich without the sensitive
refinement of Bruges or the riotous exuberance of Louvain. This is not
to condemn it as bad; except for the supreme qualities of the three
monuments last mentioned it would stand high in the architectural
scale, but it is impossible to avoid comparisons, and through these it
suffers, perhaps unjustly.
Less than fifty years after Brussels came Louvain, and so far as good
art is concerned the three-quarters of a century since Bruges has not
been altogether well spent. As in the case of religious architecture, an
ungoverned passion for beauty and craftsmanship has resulted in the
destruction of the sane and noble balance in such churches as Reims,
such civic halls as Bruges and Ypres, while nothing is left but an
almost impossible luxuriance, as of a northern flower forced in the hot,
moist air of a greenhouse. The Hôtel de Ville of Louvain, spared by some
inconsequent and unnatural whim of those who wrecked all the city around
and gave over the priceless libraries of the university to the flames,
is one of the smallest of its kind in Belgium; it is only one hundred
and thirteen feet long, forty-one feet wide, and seventy feet to the
level of its parapet--about the dimensions, let us say, of an average
New York dwelling of the better class. It is less a building than an
ornament--a shrine, a tabernacle for the sanctuary of a cathedral. You
feel that you want to take it up and polish it, you regard it as you do
an ivory carving from Pekin,
[Illustration: THE HÔTEL DE VILLE OF LOUVAIN]
and so considered it is well-nigh matchless, but it still remains
outside the category of architecture, and if you compare it with the
Ste. Chapelle, you see at once that the life is already almost gone from
a great art, even if it has passed for the moment into a supreme kind of
decoration.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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