Art -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel; Europe -- History
North we enter into a general darkness, but on our way toward the dim
old cities of Flanders and Brabant that hold even now the beauty of an
elder day, forgotten by the world and outside the area of “great natural
resources,” we may pause in spirit in Arras (it would not be well to be
there in body, unless one were a soldier in the army of the Allies, when
it would be perilous but touched with glory) for sight of an old, old
city that gave a vision, better than almost any other in France, of what
cities were in this region at the high-tide of the Renaissance. It is
gone now, utterly, irremediably, and the ill work begun in the
Revolution and continued under the empire, when the great and splendid
Gothic cathedral was sold and utterly destroyed, has been finished by
Prussian shells.
Capital of Artois, it had a vivid and eventful history, reaching back to
pre-Roman times, continuing under Baldwin of the Iron Arm, who became
the first Count of Arras; then being halved between the Count of
Flanders and the King of France; given by St. Louis to his brother
Robert, passing to the Counts of Burgundy, reverting to Louis de Mâle of
Flemish fame, abandoned to the Emperor, won back by France; then
acquiring the sinister distinction of having produced Robespierre and,
finally, coming now to its end at the hands of the German hosts. What
Arras must have been before the Revolution we can only guess, but with
its glorious cathedral, its Chapelle des Ardents, and its “Pyramid of
the Holy Candle” added to its surviving town hall with its fantastically
beautiful spire, and its miraculously preserved streets and squares
lined with fancifully gabled and arcaded houses, it must have been a
sanctuary of old delights. The cathedral was of all styles from the
twelfth to the sixteenth century, while the chapel and the “pyramid,”
were models of mediæval art in its richest state. Both were destroyed by
one Lebon, a human demon and apostate priest, who organised a “terror”
of his own in his city and has gone down to infamy for his pestilential
crimes.
Both the destroyed monuments were votive offerings in gratitude to Our
Lady for her miraculous intervention in the case of a fearful plague in
the twelfth century, the instrument of preservation being a certain holy
candle, the melted wax from which was effective in preserving the life
of all it touched. The pyramid was a slender Gothic tabernacle and
spire, ninety feet high, standing in the Petite Place, a masterpiece of
carved and painted and gilded sculptures, unique of its kind. Every
vestige has vanished except a few relics preserved, together with that
most precious memorial, the blood-stained rochet of St. Thomas à Becket,
in the modern cathedral which Berlin has just announced has been
completely and intentionally destroyed by gun-fire.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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