Art -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel; Europe -- History
The cathedral has suffered constantly and at the hands of many kinds of
unscrupulous vandals. The “Reformers” in the sixteenth century pillaged
it and wrecked its gilded shrines and its ancient glass; the
Revolutionists continued the dread work in the eighteenth century, and a
hundred years later blundering efforts to reinforce it by crude masses
of masonry were succeeded by equally blundering efforts at restoration.
It has, however, preserved and gathered together many treasures of
Catholic art, including chasubles of St. Thomas à Becket, Flemish
tapestries, ivory carvings, embroidered altar frontals, metal work, and
mediæval missals.
There are many other fine old churches in Tournai--St. Jacques, St.
Quentin, St. Nicholas, St. Brice--all with elements of interest, while
the ancient Cloth Hall contains a most valuable collection of mediæval
art-work of all kinds, and the older streets still preserve fine
dwellings and guild-houses of the Middle Ages and early Renaissance.
Audenaarde is all old, and it lies some five and twenty miles down the
slow-winding Scheldt on its roundabout and unhurried way to Ghent and
Antwerp and the sea. Once also it was a great city, now it is a village
of six or seven thousand souls, for it has fortunately never recovered
its prosperity under the new and unhandsome conditions that marked the
nineteenth century, as happened in the case of Brussels and Antwerp and
Ghent. In earlier days it was famous, like Arras, for its tapestries,
and many of those exquisite fifteenth-century masterpieces that are now
exiled in alien museums where they do not belong, but where at least
their value is appreciated and estimated at almost their weight in
gold, came from its looms. Tapestries are made here no more, nor in any
other place, for their art was of a peculiar subtlety that, even if it
finds appreciation amongst stray connoisseurs and curators, is as far
beyond the powers of the present day and generation as the glass of
Chartres or the sculptures of Reims. Linen and cotton weaving and the
brewing of beer have taken the place of tapestries in Audenaarde, but
the old town itself is little harmed thereby.
From the large and pious and opulent days of the later Middle Ages,
there remain in Audenaarde a very splendid great hall and two equally
great churches of rather unusual value. The hall is early sixteenth
century, very rich and equally graceful, with a slender tower and spire,
ending in a great crown as did the now-shattered tower of Arras. Its
rooms are very splendid, with big carved chimneypieces of the most
elaborate design, and with its small size and scrupulous detail it ranks
with Bruges and Arras and in advance of the more ambitious creations of
Brussels and Ghent.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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