_May 28._--Through the infinite and unmerited goodness of God I
am again restored, and able to do something in the way of
reading. The Resident gave us some account this evening of the
moral state of Persia. It is enough to make one shudder. If God
rained down fire upon Sodom and Gomorrah, how is it that this
nation is not blotted out from under heaven? I do not remember
to have heard such things of the Hindus, except the Sikhs; they
seem to rival the Mahometans.
For personal comfort and freedom from insult or attack, Henry Martyn,
when in Bushire, ordered the usual wardrobe of a Persian gentleman. He
had suffered his beard and moustachios to vegetate undisturbed since
leaving India, as he wrote to Corrie. In conical Astrakhan cap, baggy
blue trousers, red boots, and light chintz tunic and _chogha_ or
flowing coat, mounted on a riding pony, and followed by his Armenian
servant on a mule, with another mule for his baggage, he set out on
May 30, 1811, for Shiraz. His companion was a British officer. The
party formed a large caravan with some thirty horses and mules,
carrying goods to the ambassador. They marched by night, in the
comparative coolness of 100°, to which the thermometer fell from the
noonday heat of 126°, when they lay panting in their tents protected
from the scorching dry wind by heavy clothing. The journey of some 170
miles occupied the first nine days of June. After ninety miles over a
hot sandy plain the traveller rises, by four rocky _kotuls_ or
inclines, so steep as to be called ladders, over the spurs of the
Zagros range into a cooler region at Kaziroon, on the central plateau
of Iran, and then passes through the most delightful valleys, wooded
or clad with verdure, to the capital, Shiraz, surrounded by gardens
and by cemeteries.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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