we got no sleep, fearing we might be visited by another
scorpion.
_June 2._--We arrived at the foot of the mountains, at a place
where we seemed to have discovered one of Nature's ulcers. A
strong suffocating smell of naphtha announced something more
than ordinarily foul in the neighbourhood. We saw a river:--what
flowed in it, it seemed difficult to say, whether it were water
or green oil; it scarcely moved, and the stones which it laved
it left of a greyish colour, as if its foul touch had given them
the leprosy. Our place of encampment this day was a grove of
date-trees, where the atmosphere, at sunrise, was ten times
hotter than the ambient air. I threw myself down on the burning
ground, and slept; when the tent came up I awoke, as usual, in a
burning fever. All this day I had recourse to the wet towel,
which kept me alive, but would allow of no sleep. It was a
sorrowful Sabbath; but Captain T. read a few hymns, in which I
found great consolation. At nine in the evening we decamped. The
ground and air were so insufferably hot, that I could not travel
without a wet towel round my face and neck. This night, for the
first time, we began to ascend the mountains. The road often
passed so close to the edge of the tremendous precipices, that
one false step of the horse would have plunged his rider into
inevitable destruction. In such circumstances I found it useless
to attempt guiding the animal, and therefore gave him the rein.
These poor animals are so used to journeys of this sort, that
they generally step sure. There was nothing to mark the road but
the rocks being a little more worn in one place than in another.
Sometimes my horse, which led the way, as being the muleteer's,
stopped, as if to consider about the way: for myself, I could
not guess, at such times, where the road lay, but he always
found it. The sublime scenery would have impressed me much, in
other circumstances; but my sleepiness and fatigue rendered me
insensible to everything around me. At last we emerged _superas
ad auras_, not on the top of a mountain to go down again, but to
a plain, or upper world. At the pass, where a cleft in the
mountain admitted us into the plain, was a station of Rahdars.
While they were examining the muleteer's passports, etc., time
was given for the rest of the kafila to come up, and I got a
little sleep for a few minutes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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