_June 10._--Went this morning to Jaffir Ali Khan's, to whom we
had letters from General Malcolm, and with whom we are to take
up our abode. After the long and tedious ceremony of coffee and
_kaleans_ (pipes), breakfast made its appearance on two large
trays: curry, pilaws, various sweets cooled with snow and
perfumed with rose-water, were served in great profusion in
china plates and basins, a few wooden spoons beautifully carved;
but being in a Persian dress, and on the ground, I thought it
high time to throw off the European, and so ate with my hands.
After breakfast Jaffir took me to a summer-house in his garden,
where his brother-in-law met us, for the purpose of a
conversazione. From something I had thrown out at breakfast
about Sabat, and accident, he was curious to know what were our
opinions on these subjects. He then began to explain his own
sentiments on Soofi-ism, of which it appeared he was a
passionate admirer.
_June 11._--Breakfasted at Anius with some of the Embassy, and
went with them afterwards to a glass-house and pottery.
Afterwards called on Mr. Morier, secretary to the Embassy, Major
D'Arcy, and Sir W. Ouseley. Our host, Jaffir Ali Khan, gave us a
good deal of information this evening, about this country and
government. He used to sit for hours with the king at Teheran
telling him about India and the English.
_June 12._--Employed about _Journal_, writing letters, reading
_Gulistan_, but excessively indolent. In the morning I enjoyed
much comfort in prayer. What a privilege to have a God to go to,
in such a place, and in such company. To read and pray at
leisure seemed like coming home after being long abroad. Psalm
lxxxix. was a rich repast to me. Why is it not always thus with
me?
At Shiraz Henry Martyn was in the very heart of old Persia, to which
the eldest son of Shem had given his name, Elam. One of the greatest
of the Shahs, Kareem Khan, made Shiraz his capital, instead of the not
distant Persepolis, which also Martyn visited. The founder of the
present dynasty levelled its walls and desolated its gardens, but the
city of the six gates still dominates the fine valley which no tyrant
could destroy, and has still a pleasing appearance, though its Dewan
Khana has been stripped of the royal pillars to adorn the palace of
the new capital of Teheran. Even Timour respected Shiraz; when red
with the blood of Ispahan, he sent for Hafiz, and asked how the poet
dared to dispose of the Tartar's richest cities, Bokhara and
Samarcand, for the mole on his lady's cheek. 'Can the gifts of Hafiz
ever impoverish Timour?' was the answer; and Shiraz was spared. Kareem
Khan long after built mausoleums over the dust of the Anacreon of
Persia, and over that of Sadi, its Socrates in verse, as Sir Robert
Ker Porter well describes the author of the _Gulistan_, which was
Martyn's daily companion at this time.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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