Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 1 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881Russell, William Howard, Sir
History
Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 1 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881
Russell, William Howard, Sir
United States -- Description and travel
By this time the whole party has got into working order; Lady Green,
as a soldier's wife, sets an excellent example of punctuality and
ready-packed-up-edness, no matter how early the start may be. It is a
large party, but, by reason of its discipline, very easy to move. And
so, notwithstanding the work in the early morning nine miles away, we
were all ready at the terminus of the Shore Line by noon to strike out
for the West by the rail which runs by Lake Michigan, halting first at
Milwaukee, eighty miles away.
The Americans have many things to be grateful for on the vast
continent of which they own so goodly a share, especially the natural
facilities which they possess for turning the development of their
energies to account; and among these, next, perhaps, to the navigable
rivers opening up the length and breadth of the States to the sea, is
the series of lakes stretching from the Atlantic to the central
mountain ridges, affording the most admirable intercommunication
between the great cities which are growing up on their shores and the
corn-growing and stock-producing regions which extend far away on
either side of them.
Perchance farther out from the shore, under the influence of a
brighter sky, they may be blue, but certainly the waves that broke on
the beach were muddy and the river flowing into the lake at Milwaukee,
which is visible from the train, is exceedingly filthy. Only
comparisons are odious, I would say that it looked as vile as that at
Chicago. It needs a strong sense of the picturesque and beautiful to
tolerate the waters of the Venetian canals in summer time, but here,
without any compensation, there are the odours and the nastiness which
one would more willingly encounter in paying homage to the Queen of
the Adriatic in July or August.
On the lake were many sailing vessels with snowy cotton canvas, the
intermediate belt of land being thickly populated, rich, well
cultivated, and prettily wooded. Now and then a huge steamer came in
view, vomiting masses of smoke, too common a disfigurement of these
pure skies, for neither on shore nor on the river do they burn it.
Chicago is almost as black and smoky as Birmingham. Racine seemed to
have its full share of prosperity and manufacturing industry, but
Milwaukee, which we reached at 2.20 P.M., added one to the many
surprises which our party encountered in the United States. Mr. W.
Mitchell, who came from Aberdeen some forty odd years ago, one of the
chief men of the place, in company with other gentlemen, met the Duke
of Sutherland, and drove us through the city. It contrasted very
favourably in the cleanliness of the streets and the general
appearance of unadulterated well-doing of the population with
Chicago--a crowning glory to Mr. Mitchell, and those like him who
remember the town as a toddling, wee hamlet, and see it now
flourishing and opulent, with its 50,000 inhabitants.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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