Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 1 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881Russell, William Howard, Sir
History
Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 1 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881
Russell, William Howard, Sir
United States -- Description and travel
shanty, where fuel is not too plentiful, I am at a loss to understand,
unless it be indeed true that the cold, no matter what the thermometer
shows, is not so cold as it is in Europe. But, without jesting, there
is concurrent testimony from settlers with whom we spoke, that they
can go about without inconvenience when the thermometer marks twenty
or thirty degrees of frost; and the same fact is reported in Manitoba
of Western Canada. It is, they say, the dryness of the air which
mitigates the severity of the cold.
The names of places in Wisconsin are often of French or Indian origin,
smacking of the old days of exploration and the chase--Prairie du
Chien, Portage, Tomah, &c. We did not see much of the country between
Milwaukee and La Crosse, but now we roused ourselves to make amends
for our forced neglect by diligent observation from the windows.
The iron horse has borne the travellers nearly 200 miles without a
check, over canals, rivers, and rich fat lands, and we are now
entering on a picturesque region. For many a long mile we ran by the
side of the Father of Waters, which hereabouts has traits reminding
one of the Rhine, doubled or trebled in breadth, it is true; its broad
and turbid waters, now several feet above its ordinary level, are
confined by high wooded banks and sharp bluffs. Winona, rich in
timber-rafts and many masts--a little inland river port, with a show
of steeples and public buildings, won our regards for a moment, and
farther on the Mississippi opened out into a grand sheet called, I
think, Lake Pepin. At the summit of the bluffs the great prairie lands
begin, and after a run beneath these finely contoured natural
battlements of two and a half hours along the bank of the stream, the
line of cliff seemed to recede and open up, and we caught a glimpse of
the green headlands, flattening out into rolling treeless
plains--"There is the Prairie"! The River Division of the Chicago,
Milwaukee, and St. Paul Railway over which we travelled has not always
to congratulate itself on its vicinity to the river, nor to think its
lot has been cast in pleasant places. The great inundation in which
the Mississippi and Missouri did so much mischief left plentiful and
numerous traces of its power along our route. At 9 A.M. we crossed
the river by a fine bridge to the left bank. In half an hour more the
steeples, chimneys, and elevators of St. Paul, 409 miles from Chicago,
were in sight, and at 10 A.M. the special stopped at the platform,
where General Sibley, whilom governor and almost the father of the
country hereabouts, the mayor elect, and a deputation, were waiting to
receive the Duke, to whom they were introduced by Mr. Merrill, the
manager of the railroad.
We were always "taken charge of" by somebody or other--at least we
were told so in the newspapers--but our friends do their spiriting so
gently that we are not aware of the surveillance. At St. Paul the
party was "in charge" of the Chamber of Commerce.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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