Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 1 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881Russell, William Howard, Sir
History
Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 1 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881
Russell, William Howard, Sir
United States -- Description and travel
dinner in the train, in the middle of the contending emotions which
were occasioned by the conditions under which we were continuing our
course to the West, the Auditor made a feeling little speech which
touched the heart and gained the assent of the company, and healths
were proposed.
"Coates's House," Kansas City, on which we descended late at night, is
not exactly the hotel a fastidious or exacting person would select as
an abiding place if he had one experience of it. Moreover, there was a
convention at Coates's House. We have been much exercised by
"Conventions," dropping upon them at unexpected times and
places--"Conventions" of doctors, of druggists, of railway conductors;
and these being in possession, and masters of the situation, were
always the most favoured guests. A stranger accustomed to have his own
way in his inn, and to have his orders attended to with dispatch,
might perhaps have his temper ruffled by the divine calm of the
coloured citizens who officiated as helps, or by the haughty composure
of the landlord, probably a warrior of renown, and assuredly a
"colonel," at the very least who did not complaints or importunities.
Quoth British railway director to mine host at the office:--"There is
no looking-glass in my bedroom, and I can't find any basin and ewer."
To whom the lord of Coates's House:--"Well, I've done the best I can
for you! There are ladies sleeping on the floor! And if you don't like
what you get here, there are other hotels in Kansas City, and you can
go to them if you please." Director collapsed. But he appeared clothed
and in his right mind in the morning, and I do not think the Colonel
meant to be at all uncivil. Perhaps a party of ten coming in after
hours, each demanding a separate bedroom, is considered as a
disturbing and aggressive element, to be promptly sat upon and
repressed. Next morning we were all up and downstairs betimes. An
ample breakfast was well served by white women, aided by "darkies," in
the public room, and then came the leave-taking with Mr. Bickersteth,
Mr. Crosfield and Mr. Neale, the friends and companions with whom we
had been living and travelling day and night, since the 23rd April, in
harmony, which was not marred for an instant even when there were
discussions concerning the programme, or small conflicts of wishes.
The regret of which the outward and visible sign was only a deal of
hand-shaking and simply expressed good wishes, based on the harmony of
our mutual relations, was sincere. We saw our friends off on their
journey to New York, and bade good-bye to Mr. Whelpley our conductor,
Mr. Whitfield the baggage-master, who had been with us all along, and
to the steward and excellent _valetaille_ of the train, to whose care
we were very deeply indebted for our comfort.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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