Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 1 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881Russell, William Howard, Sir
History
Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 1 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881
Russell, William Howard, Sir
United States -- Description and travel
At last we reached Santa Fé--a very pleasant break, indeed, but short,
alas! at this ancient city--the oldest now existing on this North
American Continent--100 years older than Boston--hubbiest and most
rejuvenated of the work of civilised hands! The cupolas of the
cathedral, of the hospital, and of the old church of San Miguel, were
visible some time before the adobe houses of the "city" came in view.
The builders put Santa Fé in a hollow for the sake of the little
stream. Colonel Hatch and his staff, who were waiting to receive the
Duke in full uniform, entered the saloon and introduced his adjutant,
Captain Lord, Major Lee, of the Quartermaster-General's Department,
Captain Woodruff, &c. What a charming change it was to meet agreeable,
well-informed gentlemen who never once mentioned "dollars," or told us
what any one was worth, or the number of bushels of wheat and other
stuffs which were raised per acre, and who had no elevators to show!
Carriages were waiting. Colonel Hatch drove the Duke of Sutherland
"behind" a capital pair of fast trotters. Lady Green and Sir H. Green,
accompanied by Major Lee, were in a carriage and pair; Mr. Stephen,
Mr. Wright and I were assigned to Captain Woodruff; Edward was on the
box; our chariot wheels drave heavily; but the spirited little horses
spun us rapidly through the streets of the town, into what would be
called in India "the cantonment"--the Head-Quarters of the district of
New Mexico. Within a large quadrangle, fenced in by a neat white
paling, facing two sides of the square, are placed the detached houses
of the officers, each with its little garden and trellised verandah in
front, and a small space in the rear; the barracks and hospital, very
neat outside, and no doubt equally proper interiorly--efforts at
gardening and flowers commendable. In the centre the tall pole bearing
"Old Glory" (the Stars and Stripes) aloft to the admiring skies, a
Parrot gun for signals, and military properties generally. Some
soldiers of the 9th Cavalry and 15th Infantry were lounging about, but
the Command is scattered at Fort Union, Fort Bayard, Fort Wingate
(13th Infantry), Fort Lewis, Pagosa Springs, Fort Craig, Ojo
Caliente, Fort Stanton, Fort Bliss (Texas), Fort Cummings, and Fort
Seldon. Just before we arrived a column had marched off to strengthen
the frontier posts, 200 miles away, where the Ute Indians were
menacing the poor whites with war--one of those troubles which appear
to be the greatest blot on the capacity of the United States
Government in its civil administration. The streets are narrow, the
houses of abode two storeys high, with flat earth roofs, but there is
a plaza with some trees, in which there was a small crowd listening to
the strains of the excellent band of the 9th Cavalry--a penny theatre,
drinking saloons, bars, &c., and a large hotel is being built on a
scale which argues a robust faith in the future of Santa Fé. From the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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