Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 1 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881Russell, William Howard, Sir
History
Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 1 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881
Russell, William Howard, Sir
United States -- Description and travel
Next day (May 5th), at 10 o'clock, we left by the Baltimore and Ohio
Railroad, sorry we had not more time to enjoy the hospitalities of our
friends, and to see more of the interesting people and scenes with
which we made such a short acquaintance; but, indeed, the number of
attractions presented for the time that we had at our disposal was
quite embarrassing enough, and whilst we were at Washington the party,
broken up in detachments under the care of various friends, lost no
time, but went to racecourses, galleries, and national institutions,
crossed the Potomac to the heights of Arlington, and visited the
cemeteries where tens of thousands of stone memorials, placed, as the
dead men beneath them once stood, in orderly array, attest the
severity of the tremendous conflict in which the first shots were
fired, not very far from the spot, more than twenty years ago. It is
said that there are about 15,000 bodies buried in one enclosure; even
in death the white and the black are divided--the former are buried
near Arlington House, the coloured men's remains lie half a mile or
more away. Another cemetery, containing 5400 soldier's bodies, is near
the Soldiers' Home. These and many other places were visited; but we
must leave Washington at last, and were carried at express speed to
the Shenandoah Junction. We are on our way to Harrisburg. Fortunately
the day is bright and clear, and the sun not too warm, so that we can
enjoy the charming scenery through which the railway passes, and we
are interested in observing that the canal, in spite of the
competition of the iron road, still keeps up navigation, and that
strings of gaily-painted barges with the national flag are passing to
and fro close at hand. The course of the Potomac, to which we now and
then come near, is marked by the wooded heights which once formed the
skirmish-ground of two great armies. It would not have been safe at
one time for a man to have shown his head above the cutting of the
canal, or to have ridden by the river-banks, for in all probability a
Secesh bullet would have found him out or dismounted him, as there was
fighting-ground all about; and the peaceful scene seemed strange to me
when I contrasted it with the sight it presented as I saw it after the
battle in which Senator Baker was killed and many Union men with him,
and great gloom reigned at Washington--when General McClennan led all
the troops that could be spared, who were pouring out in a long column
on this road, and the country-side was alive with armed men in order
to counteract the menaced invasion of Maryland. At the Shenandoah
Junction, six miles west of Harper's Ferry, we halted for a while. It
seemed to me as if it had not quite recovered from the ravages of war,
and Harper's Ferry appeared as if the storm of battle that had passed
over it--taken and retaken as it was so many times--had left an
indelible mark of wreck and ruin about it. Nothing, however, can
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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