Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 1 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881Russell, William Howard, Sir
History
Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 1 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881
Russell, William Howard, Sir
United States -- Description and travel
It was evening when the train reached the end of our day's journey,
and the party drove in a shower of rain to their quarters at the
hotel.
Harrisburg has apparently seen its best days without having ever
witnessed very good ones, but our means of judging were meagre indeed.
The weather was bad, and our visit was very brief. It must be
understood that I write of places as I see or find them, and the
contrast between Philadelphia and the capital of the State of
Pennsylvania, as we beheld it in the drive from the station to our
hotel, was very marked in favour of the former. The shops in the main
street belonged to the old country rather than to the new, and there
was an aspect of "want of flourishing," as a friend said, which was
not in keeping with the surroundings. And yet when John Harris, after
his rescue from the Indians who were about to torture him and did not,
though they did not foresee that they were about to be disposed of
without torture, founded the city, less than a hundred years ago, on
the banks of the Susquehanna, he had a very fine eye for a situation,
and had fair grounds for thinking he had done a very good thing. But
why was it made the State capital in 1812? Surely Philadelphia even
then deserved the honour. We were told we should have put up at the
Lochiel House (something to do with Simon Cameron who lives here, I
suppose), but we did not, and that which was selected for the party
was not of the first or second class. The sewers of the city were
open, or only partially covered. The rats which played about in view
of our sitting-room window were of a size of which Harrisburg may be
justly proud, and I observed from the windows of the hotel many fine
animals come up to take the air and see what was going on, with the
style of well-to-do citizens, meaning no harm and fearing none. They
were, perhaps, a little too numerous for the comfort of nervous
people, though I will not aver that there is not plenty for them to
do. The market-place across the way was ancient and dilapidated, or,
as it was of wood, delignified.
It was not till a year before the Civil War Harrisburg received a
charter, and at the moment of our visit the population did not number
80,000. A State House and Library, a State Arsenal, a State Lunatic
Asylum, a County Prison, Opera houses, Masonic Hall, churches, Harris
Park and Cemetery, and great ironworks, all unvisited, but duly
enumerated by citizens zealous of the honour of their city, haunted
conscientious tourists as things which ought to be seen, but they were
not in the programme--we could not find them in the bond--and so they
were taken for granted; not so the substantial interviews which had to
be attended to, and the arrangements for visiting the Baldwin Iron
and Steel Works, and Colonel Long's farm at Middleton, which were to
be taken on our way to New York.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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