Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 1 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881Russell, William Howard, Sir
History
Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 1 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881
Russell, William Howard, Sir
United States -- Description and travel
a fine sunset, ere darkness shut out all but the lights on shore, and
those which marked out what to seek and avoid for the toiler on the
seas. The course of the steamer for the greater part of the night lay
in tranquil waters, for Long Island was on our right, and on our left
was the shore of Connecticut; but after midnight I awoke, and had no
doubt as to what the wild waves were saying, and looking out of my
window saw a confused sea, to the lively forces of which our steamer
was making unmistakable submission. A less confidence-inspiring craft
for rough weather than our palace I thought I never had been in, and I
was not dissatisfied when the trial of her powers was at an end, and
the tyranny of the seas was overpast as we approached Newport and got
under the shelter of Martha's Vineyard at some early hour in the
morning. Says I to a nautical gentleman on the staff of the noble
ship, "Would she cross the Atlantic, do you think?" "Certainly," quoth
he, "if it wasn't bad weather." "Well! but how would she do in a
gale?" "It would just be as well not to try, but if we could keep her
head right to it there would not be much harm--no forcing, though--no,
sir!" At Newport there was a great exodus of passengers and baggage
about 3 o'clock, and some two hours later the steamer, passing up
Narraganset Bay, arrived at Fall River, where we landed, and took our
places in a train of the Old Colony Railroad for Boston. Fall River,
which one might take to be a cascading stream, turned out to be an
enormous manufacturing town of some 50,000 people, all factories,
chimneys, and storehouses, and what we saw of Massachusetts as we ran
through it gave us a higher idea of its commercial activity and
manufacturing industry than of its natural advantages. I cannot say
how many towns of note we skirted or ran through in our two hours'
journey--glimpses of magazines, stores, warehouses, smoke-stacks,
staring placards at intervals here and there, were all we knew of
them; but the land did not seem rich nor the scenery attractive, and
yet there are good crops to be had, and fruit is abundant and
excellent. There is a long hard winter and an ardent summer here, and
some of the weaker vessels among the Pilgrim Fathers (and mothers)
must have often wished themselves back in the clammy East Countree on
the German Ocean, or in their foster-mother Holland, when, like so
many Calibans (for conscience' sake), they were persecuted by Indians,
Witches, Quakers, and the climate, in the days before they were strong
enough to persecute in their turn, and so reconcile themselves to
atmospheric vicissitudes. Among our fellow-passengers in the
"_Gallia_" was Mr. Washburn, ex-Governor of the State, and one of a
very eminent band of brothers who have risen to deserved distinction
in America, and to his kind offices were the Duke of Sutherland and
his friends indebted for the graceful _empressement_ of the leading
men of Boston to do the honours of their city. On our arrival at the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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