Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 1 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881Russell, William Howard, Sir
History
Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 1 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881
Russell, William Howard, Sir
United States -- Description and travel
United States navy--and family, were caught there by the flood of
invaders, as they were about to escape from Paris. We had an early
dinner, and then had to prepare for another flitting, about which some
of us were much exercised, for it was to take us back to New York
again! I must confess to a sense of shame at such a hurried visit to
the "hubbiest" of American cities. The excuse was, that there was an
imperious desire on the part of our directors to see the Hudson River
Line, and Albany, the capital of the State of New York, and so at 10
P.M. we were "all on board" and rattling in a Wagner palace-car over
rather a rough line down South; needless to say, we did not see much
of the country, though it was not easy to sleep, owing to the
jumpiness of the carriages.
_May 9th._--Next morning before 6 o'clock, after a journey of 230
miles, we were delivered on the platform of the station in New York.
All our roads lead to it apparently! We walked through the silent
streets to Sherwood House, in Fifth Avenue, where a welcome and
excellent breakfast had been ordered. The arrangements, the air, and
the perfect repose of the place produced a most agreeable impression.
The landlord informed us that it was almost exclusively frequented as
a family hotel, and that when the New York season was over he closed
his doors, shut up his windows, and went off for his holiday. At 9.30
A.M. we were on our way to Albany accompanied by Mr. Vanderbilt,
junior, and several of the directors of the New York Central and
Hudson River Railroad Company. Americans are justly proud of the
Hudson; it delights the eye of every traveller, and in some respects,
particularly in the beauty of the autumn foliage, it excels the most
famous rivers of Europe. All the more ought they to wage war against
the disgusting outrages on the face of nature which are permitted to
disfigure its banks. The very stones prate of the whereabouts of some
loathsome quack or some ludicrous nostrum, and aggravating repetitions
of the same names and specifics, painted in staring colours, mile
after mile, force the philanthropic traveller to sigh for a measure of
dynamite, and to thirst for the ruin of the miscreants who so disturb
his peace. The Hudson river-side close to the capital is not very
inviting; the works of the Elevated Railway, which is preparing for a
tremendous spring over its Harlem tributary, do not appeal to one's
sense of the beautiful; and a squatter population in what one of my
friends called "very squattery shanties" does not prepare the
traveller for the long stretch of _maisons de plaisance_, country
houses, airy villages, and flourishing townlets which greet his eye as
the train speeds in close to the edge of the left, or east, bank. The
sheer, precipitous downfall of rock, at the opposite side, called the
Palisades, soon comes in view. It may be dimly thought out that the
appearance of the trap rock, which is ranged in perpendicular columns,
suggested the name.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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