Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 1 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881Russell, William Howard, Sir
History
Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 1 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881
Russell, William Howard, Sir
United States -- Description and travel
I hope that other people bear the souvenirs of their disasters in
characters of paint, brass, and iron, in monuments of stone and the
_ære perennius_ records of history, as well as the normal Briton, who
is met in the United States with "_Io triumphes_" over his race in all
kinds of metals and forms. I turned me out of Kennard Hotel, and found
myself in a fine square, surrounded by shops and important edifices,
and, gravitating towards a statue, I was obliged to recognise the
effigies of Commodore Perry, who swept Lake Erie as clear of King
George's flotilla as erst did Van Tromp "_balaye_" the Channel of the
ships of the Stuart. Then I recoiled against a cannon, and was brought
up all standing by the inscription which recorded another disaster of
my countrymen. Finally I wandered off into Euclid Avenue to recover my
peace of mind, only wondering whether Frenchmen in England are so
heavenly minded under the infliction of innumerable Waterloo and
Wellington squares, streets, places, and bridges, and if Russians feel
as little the wrongs of Boulevards Sébastopol in Paris, and cannon
plantations in every town in England. Now, Euclid Avenue is a street
without parallel as far as I know. It is not quite a street, but it is
not easy to draw a line between a street and an avenue. The American
Euclid drew his line straight enough for more miles than I could go,
and then he built on either side spruce, trim villas of very various
architecture, shapes, and sizes, each in its plot of ground, with
lawns, trees, and gardens, often open and unfenced to the roadway,
which is lined with trees in a grand boulevard--a kind of Clapham or
Balham frontage, with ideas taken from the Avenue de l'Impératrice, or
the suburbs of Versailles--any way, the people who lived in these
abodes were well lodged, and must have a fair share of the world's
goods. They ought to be very good people, too. Wherever I looked there
were church steeples pointing with their silent fingers to heaven.
There are, I am told, nearly one hundred churches--to be
guide-bookishly accurate, ninety-six--in Cleveland, and, as extremes
touch, the Methodists and Presbyterians affect the Gothic style as
well as the Episcopalians and Roman Catholics. On hearsay mainly, but
in some measure on the evidence of eyesight, I aver that the city
literally abounds in edifices of beauty devoted to the highest objects
of education, science, learning, and charity. I felt, as I walked
along the Avenue of Euclid, and beheld so many evidences of enterprise
and prosperity, that (if I could do it in the dark) I ought to go and
put a wreath at the foot of Commodore Perry's statue. What would it
all have been, had the General in the red coat and the old Commodore
on the other side had the best of it? Did any of the people in the
nice houses think that an elderly gentleman who was dawdling under the
shade of their beautiful trees was rather anxious that he should not
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