Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 2 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881Russell, William Howard, Sir
History
Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 2 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881
Russell, William Howard, Sir
United States -- Description and travel
The party drove to the Morning Star, said to be the best mine in
Leadville; and the Duke, Lady Green, Sir Henry Green, and others, went
down the mine in miners' clothes or cloaks. Two others, whose names I
shall not give, remained above, and had, I fancy, the best of the time.
Afterwards we visited Grant's Smelting Works, and then back to the
Clarence Hotel and dined, strolling out afterwards through the town and
visiting the billiard saloons, the Grand Central Theatre, and finally,
where we were told Leadville life was to be seen in all its glory, the
faro and the kino tables, which, however, were doing but very little
business, as it was not until after midnight that play in the town
generally commenced. Instead of sleeping at the hotel, we resolved
to take refuge in the train, which was drawn up at the siding; and we
had to drive in order to reach it, as it was considered unsafe to walk
through the streets in the dark.
We started at four o'clock next morning, June 18th, and on arriving
at Arkansas Station learned that an engine was off the line in front
of us. Breakdown gangs were sent for, and all the locomotive talent
amongst our passengers repaired quickly to the scene. As it was not
easy to lift the engine, the engineers adopted the expedient of laying
a temporary rail to turn its flank so as to enable us to pass round
it, which we did after a delay of about an hour. The Duke got out and
sat on the cow-catcher by way of a change. But the interest we took in
the scenery was somewhat diminished by the intelligence that the delay
caused by the engine would prevent our enjoying the "soda bath" we had
been promised at Cañon City, and the sight of the State Prison, where
murderers were to be paraded by the dozen. About twenty miles north
of the Grand Cañon, the gorges through which the river runs became
wider and deeper. All that has been written about the Grand Cañon
utterly fails to convey an adequate idea of its exceeding grandeur
and wildness. The rocks--closing in so that the spectator in the car,
looking forward, thinks the progress of the train must be arrested,
and that it is not possible for it to get out of the _cul de sac_ which
appears in front, rising aloft for upwards of two thousand five hundred
feet on each side--are coloured with the brightest hues, and present an
infinite variety of form. The impetuous current of the Arkansas River,
contracted at times to the breadth of some twenty or thirty yards,
and penned into a space in which the waters boil and toss as if about
to leap on and submerge the passing cars, roars wildly down below on
our right at a depth varying as the line rises and falls. But it is
at the Bridge--a triumph of engineering skill--that the horrors of
the pass culminate. The sides of the ravine approach so near that the
daring engineer was enabled to execute the idea of lowering from above
a [**triangle]-shaped frame or trestle of iron; and, the ends catching
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