Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 2 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881Russell, William Howard, Sir
History
Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 2 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881
Russell, William Howard, Sir
United States -- Description and travel
While travelling across the Rockies and the desert to San Francisco
and back, our course of life was pretty uniform, and one day followed
another with almost perfect resemblance in the mode of existence and
in all things except the scenery and the country through which we
were passing. First, in the early morning came one of the attendants
to our bedside with a cup of coffee, and then the curtains of the
little cubicle were thrown aside and you looked out on either plain,
or mountain, or river, or col; and on the faces of early risers at
doors or windows as the train passed through some rising town. At one
end of the saloon there was a bath-room, and from the tank there was
always to be obtained sufficient water for the purpose of an early
dip, which was enjoyed as occasion offered in turn by the party. Then
a cigarette. Then we dropped in as people do at a country house, into
the sitting-room, and exchanged ideas as to the progress made during
the night, and the stoppages, wondered where we were, and had a little
conversation with the conductor or Arthur as to the place where we
could stop or get the papers--and so got over the morning till 9
o'clock, when breakfast was announced, consisting of fish, poultry,
meat, fruit (I had nearly said flowers, for there was always a bouquet
on the table), tea, coffee, and cold dishes, with abundance of milk
and butter. Where the fish came from and how they were kept fresh was
matter of wonder, for the instances were very rare in which there was
any indication that it had not quite recently come out of the sea or
the river. The supply of ice was liberal and unfailing, and whenever
we stopped at any considerable station the whole disposable strength
of the attendants in the train was employed in grappling with large
blocks of it and stowing it away in the ice reservoir, in which were
the larder and the cellar for such wines as needed cooling, and for
the vegetables and meat, of which there were great stores constantly
laid in. Then after breakfast there was reading or sight-seeing,
investigating the line, examining the maps, receiving visits and
returning them in other parts of the train, till in the very hot days
it was necessary, after expelling the flies, which were troublesome on
occasion, to draw the dust-blinds and the curtains of the carriages,
to mitigate the fierceness of the sun. It was objected occasionally
that by this process we deprived ourselves of the opportunity of
what was called "seeing the country," but after all a glance now
and then is quite sufficient to reveal the general character of the
districts through which the train is running; and the most diligent and
painstaking observer cannot keep his eyes fixed steadily for a day on
the external aspects of the region through which he is travelling. I
should be sorry to declare that every one was wide awake all the time
of the forenoon and up to the period of lunch, which too often exceeded
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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