Highways and Byways in LondonCook, Emily Constance Baird
History
Highways and Byways in London
Cook, Emily Constance Baird
London (England) -- Description and travel
Bits of old London, unchanged for centuries, crop up continually in
the Temple precincts, and recall the time when this was a city of
timbered houses of tortuous, overhanging, insanitary alleys and lanes,
easily burned, almost impossible indeed to save when once threatened
by fire. Small wonder, indeed, that the great fire of 1666 destroyed
so much of the Temple! Middle-Temple-Lane, narrow, crooked, dark, is
one of these relics of the past. Here are some picturesque old houses
of lath and plaster, with overhanging upper floors, and shops beneath
stuffed with law stationery and requirements; the houses somewhat
crumbling and dilapidated, and "with an air," like Krook's shop in
_Bleak House_, "of being in a legal neighbourhood, and of being, as it
were a dirty hanger-on and disowned relation of the law." Every now
and then, about the Temple, in odd and unexpected nooks and corners,
you come upon the arms of the Knights Templars; in the Middle Temple
it is the Lamb bearing the banner of Innocence, and the red cross, the
original badge of the order; in the Inner Temple,--the winged
Pegasus,--with the motto, "Volat ad astra virtus." This winged horse
has a curious history; for, when the horse was originally chosen as an
emblem, he had no wings, but was ridden by two men at once to indicate
the self-chosen poverty of the brotherhood; in lapse of years the
figures of the men became worn and abraded, and when restored were
mistaken for wings!
Middle-Temple-Lane is entered from Fleet-Street, just beyond the
Temple-Bar Griffin and the imposing mass of the New Gothic Law-Courts,
by a dull red-brick gateway, erected by Wren in 1684; and the Inner
Temple by an archway under a hairdresser's shop, which shop is
inscribed somewhat romantically as "the palace of Henry VIII. and
Cardinal Wolsey." (As a matter of fact it was built in James I.'s
time, and belonged to Henry, Prince of Wales; it subsequently became
"Nando's Coffee-House.") These picturesque, unassuming archways bear
the special arms of each Inn, and here, by the winged horse, a wit
once wrote the following "pasquinade:"
"As by the Templar's hold you go,
The horse and lamb displayed
In emblematic figures show
The merits of their trade.
"The clients may infer from thence
How just is their profession:
The lamb sets forth their innocence,
The horse their expedition."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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